Sunday, February 28, 2016

Snapdragons should be a number one winter annual


I saw a wonderful mass planting of dwarf snapdragons at a commercial site in Port Charlotte the other day that really caught my eye and reemphasized my belief that this often underutilized cold-hardy winter annual needs more promotion.  These cool season annuals have come a long way from their native southern Mediterranean origins.  Cold-tolerant and best grown in our area in fall and winter, this colorful flower does well as a bedding plant, in planters or a cut flower subject.  Available in many heights and colors, snapdragons love our winter weather.

Although garden centers and nurseries presently have a large supply of snapdragons ready-to-plant in your garden, they can be started from seed or even by cuttings.  Snapdragons do best in slightly acid soil in a full sun site.  Amending the soil with organic matter will help keep the soil moist, but well-drained, as preferred by these plants.  Water frequently until the plants are established and then as needed.  Set individual plants about fourteen inches apart and place them in the soil at the same depth they were in the pot as stem rots can develop if planted too deeply.  Pinching of young plants will force branching and subsequently more flowers.  Tall types of snapdragons may need to be staked to help support the blooms.  As a bonus, once the old flower heads fade, cut them back so that only six nodes (a point where a leave attaches) remain and your snapdragons will experience a second bloom.  Fertilize at this point to support this second blooming period. 

Snapdragons can be divided up into tall types which grow to about two to three feet tall, intermediate sizes from one to two feet tall, bedding types that fit into the six to fifteen inch range and rock garden varieties that grow only about six inches tall.   The tall types include cultivars such as 'Rocket', 'Burpee's Topper', 'Spring Giant', 'Bright Butterflies', and 'Panorama'.  These snapdragons not only look good in the garden, but also make great cut flowers in bouquets.  For intermediate snapdragons, you might find 'Liberty', 'Monarch', 'Pixie', 'White Wonder', 'Black Prince' and 'Vanity Fair'.   You may also be able find some of the popular dwarf cultivars such as 'Tahiti', 'Tom Thumb', 'Floral Carpet', 'Magic Carpet', 'Little Gem' and a bi-colored variety called 'Peaches and Cream'.  As a general rule-of-thumb, snapdragons with dark colored flowers have dark green or reddish stems and those with white or pale flowers have pale green stems. 

Snapdragons do fine by themselves, but also make great companions for plants such as pansies.  Add some of these colorful and winter-hardy flowers in your landscape beds today!  For more information on all types of annual flowers, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf

Resources:
Gilman, E. F. (2014) Antirrhinum majus Snapdragon.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Gilman, E. F. (2014) Antirrhinum majus 'Tahiti', Tahiti Snapdragon.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Gilman, E. F. (2014) Antirrhinum majus 'Liberty', Liberty Snapdragon.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Christman, S. (2004) Antirrhinum majus .  Floridata.com
Klingaman, G. (2004) Plant of the Week: Snapdragon.  The University of Arkansas.

Winter, N. (2002) Southern Gardening - Snapdragons Make Ideal Fall Plantings.  Mississippi State University. 

Thursday, February 25, 2016

The well-dressed pittosporum


While many landscape plants have one or more common names that people recognize, the pittosporum is most often called just “pittosporum”.    Many other names such as the Japanese mockorange, Japanese pittosporum, and tobira have been used, but I don’t think that I would respond if I heard one of these aliases.  The pittosporum is a hardy plant with several forms that make it a great landscape feature with a few fragrant flowers thrown in for good measure .

While I have seen the pittosporum kept as a houseplant inside up north, they make truly great landscape subjects in our area.  This evergreen can be grown as a shrub or even a small tree up to fifteen feet tall with some training.  The leaves, arranged in a whorl, are oblong in shape and up to five inches long.  The edges of the leaves curl downward and inward adding to the attractive nature of the green foliage.  Most of the pittosporum in local landscapes are the popular variegated types with glossy, creamy white and grey-green leaves. Young specimens will produce  rapid growth and then slow as they reach the ten-foot tall range.  Although easily maintained to the size you want with selective pruning, some cultivars are normally dwarf by nature.  ‘Wheeler’s Dwarf’ for instance grows to only about two feet in height .  This variety makes a great mounding specimen suitable for low-maintenance landscaping. 

The pittosporum is highly salt tolerant and is an ideal plant for coastal planting.  Once established, this woody ornamental is also highly drought tolerant.  However, the pittosporum does not tolerate wet soil and poor drainage.  Too much water will initiate root rots, so be careful about site selection.  For best results, plant in a part shade to sun location with spacing from thirty-six to sixty inches between plants. 

An added feature of the pittosporum is the spring flowers.  While the white to creamy yellow flowers are sometimes less noticeable on variegated types, they are very apparent on the all-green pittosporum.  In addition to the showy nature, these flowers are highly fragrant reminding you of orange blossoms – thus the name Japanese mockorange. 

Besides specimens trained as a small tree, pittosporum are often used as hedge material, for mass planting and even in large containers or planters.  Pittosporum is clearly a great woody ornamental plant that will make a nice addition to your Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant palette!  For information on all types of shrubs suitable for our area,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf

Resources:
Gilman, E. F. ( 2014) Pittosporum tobira ‘Variegata’ Variegated Pittosporum. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Christman, S. (2004) Pittosporum tobira. Floridaata.com, Tallahassee, FL.


Monday, February 15, 2016

Lawns can get stressed


Is your lawn looking a little tired and stressed?  Are you, pests and the  environment not playing nice with your turf?  One of the factors that can get turf down is stress.  Just like us, stress can weaken their nature and result in poor quality growth.  Lawns get stressed, you can help!

First, if you are at pre-planting stage, or could go back in time, select a turf that best fits the site conditions in your yard. For instance,  Bahia grass does not like growing in highly alkaline soil and will tend to yellow a bit during the summer often requiring supplemental iron applications.  A soil test would help you get a better idea of the what the soil conditions are before you install a lawn.

Many grasses don’t do well in heavy shade.    Some turf, such as the St. Augustine dwarf cultivars, ‘Delmar’, ‘Seville’ and ‘Captiva’, can tolerate shade better than other selections.   Reduced irrigation and fertilization will help turf in shade better tolerate low light conditions.   Too much shade can cause thin, unattractive turf to the point where perhaps some alternative groundcover might be preferable.  Heavy shade may even require the use of just mulch.

Both St. Augustine and Bahia grass do not tolerate traffic well.  Constant walking over the turf, driving or parking on it is stressful to these grasses resulting in thin or declining lawns.

Proper fertilization will keep lawns healthy and vigorous.  Nutrients such as nitrogen are necessary for good growth, but too much can force excess growth to the detriment of the lawn as it may exhaust energy reserves.  Excess nitrogen may even enhance and trigger conditions in which insect and disease pests take advantage of succulent tender tissue.  A less dense turf is an invitation to weed invasion as well.  Potassium is another required nutrient in turf fertilizer formulas.   Potassium is a nutrient that actually helps turf tolerate stress – cold, drought, etc. 

One big stress-maker for turf is improper mowing height.  Scalping turf at two inches or less when it should be cut at three and one-half to four inches hurts grass by reducing its ability to make and store food.  Scalping can actually trigger opportunistic turf disease infections.  Mowing at the proper height is so important – higher mowing heights also produce deeper roots and better drought tolerance.  A sharp mower blade also makes a good clean cut – no more shattered and ripped grass blades.

Proper watering is another variable that supports a healthy, stress-free lawn.  As a general rule-of-thumb, (if needed) apply one-half inch to three-quarters of an inch of water per irrigation.  This amount of water gets down to the roots, but not beyond.  Always check your local watering restrictions for how many times a week this is allowed.  Lawns will actually show visible signs that they need water.  Grass blades will fold in half when water is needed.  Grass blades will also take on a blue-green appearance.  When you walk across a lawn needing irrigation your foot prints will remain and not spring back to normal. 

So are you or other factors disrespecting your turf?  Give it a break and treat it right with proper mowing, fertilization, irrigation and other cultural actions!  For more information on all types of turf questions, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf .

Resources:
Trenholm, L. E. Environmental Stresses and Your Florida Lawn (2016) The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Trenholm,  L. E., Unruh, J. B. & Cisar,  J. L. (2015)  Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Trenholm,  L. E., Unruh, J. B. & Cisar,  J. L. (2014) St. Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Trenholm,  L. E., (2014) Homeowner Best Management Practices for the Home Lawn. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Friday, February 5, 2016

Tart, but beautiful - the calamondin


The first citrus I ever tried to grow as a child was a calamondin brought back from Florida by my grandparents.  I thought that it was a miniature orange and was thrilled when it produced even a couple of fruit indoors in Rhode Island.  Since then, I have expanded my citrus knowledge, but still like the little charmer also known as the calamondin orange, Chinese orange, Panama orange,  golden lime or the  scarlet lime. Both edible and ornamental,  the calamondin is hardy, well-adapted to both the landscape and container culture, has wonderful fragrant white flowers in season and produces truly abundant fruit.  To see a calamondin in full fruit or flower (or even both at the same time) is a treat that reemphasizes the value of such a tree in your yard.

As far as I understand, the calamondin is a hybrid resulting from a cross of a mandarin and a kumquat.  Originating in China, and later traveling to Indonesia and the Philippines,  the calamondin was brought to Florida in 1899 and has since become very popular as a bushy, dense evergreen ornamental.  One of the hardiness citrus trees, calamondin can tolerate temperatures down to twenty degrees F.  Growing about a foot a year to no more than twenty feet tall, this small-fruited citrus can begin to produce fruit in as early as two years.

The fruit, which  is small, bright orange in color, and one and one-half inches in diameter, can take almost a year to fully ripen.  The peel of the fruit can actually taste sweet and is edible.  The pulp is very acid and the flavor reminds me of a mix of tangerine and lime – just very,  very tart!  This tartness makes calamondin fruit work well as a lime substitute for making refreshing beverages, pies, cakes, marmalades, preserves and sauces.  Some people may even use the cut fruits to liven-up iced tea or seafood.  Harvest fruit as it is just beginning to show some color as overripe fruit is soft and less flavorful.  Clip the fruit off the tree with scissors as otherwise the thin peel will rip at the stem end and the fruit will not keep as well. 

Grow your calamondin in a full sun location with good drainage.  Calamondin trees grow very upright and are almost naturally columnar in shape.  They will flower and fruit year round with a spring flush producing an abundance of fruit.  The white flowers are intensely fragrant and will permeate your yard with that classic citrus blossom scent. 

In addition to the normal green-leaved variety, there is a variegated form which adds another attractive dimension to this classic plant.  For more information on this and other citrus, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:
King, M. & Oswald, M. J. Florida Food Fare – Calamondin.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Sarasota County.
McEachern, G. R. (2004) Calamondin – The Most Versatile Citrus.  Texas A&M University.
Christman, S. (2006) Citrofortunella microcarpa.  Floridata: Tallahassee, FL. 
Morton, J. (1987) Calamondin. P. 176-178. Fruits of warm climates. Miami, FL. via Purdue University.

Thursday, February 4, 2016

How to water your newly planted trees


Water is perhaps the most important ingredient needed by a newly planted tree.  Water is also the item most over-looked by homeowners as they prepare to get a tree established in their landscape.  How can we best succeed in getting a tree the best start possible for a long and healthy life ahead?

Newly plants trees are very needy and dependent on their planter.  Even in the “rainy season” there may not be sufficient daily rains to meet the demand.  It is really the power of frequency over the actual volume of water that makes the difference.  The amount and the frequency depends on the size of the tree.  For instance, for a tree with a caliper measurement of two inches or less, water the tree daily for two weeks.  This schedule is followed by watering every other day for two months.  Then, water weekly until established. You should adjust your watering as needed if it rains.   Rule-of-thumb for the amount of water per irrigation would be to apply two gallons per inch trunk caliper.  For a tree to become established, it will take three to four months per caliper inch of trunk diameter for the roots to sufficiently grow out into the surrounding soil and be able to be on their own (depending on the time of year and the type of tree) without additional irrigation.  Proper mulching will help the tree retain moisture and suppress resource-stealing weeds.  After one year, most trees will have grown new roots out three to ten feet. 

Often, a newly-planted tree will be much bigger than two inches in diameter and watering will have to be extended for successful establishment.  As an example, a two-to four inch caliper trunk tree will require watering daily for one month, three months of every other day, and then weekly until established.   A four-inch diameter trunk tree will take at least a year to become established.   An even bigger tree at four inches or greater will need to be watered daily for a month, and every other day for five months, and so on.  Many people do not follow this schedule and do not experience vigorous tree establishment.  The result – minimal survival or worst!  

Often, irrigation systems will not provide sufficient water to newly planted trees.  You may need to retrofit your system to service trees making sure that the proper amount of water is provided.  Hand watering may be necessary and a more accurate delivery method.

Why not plan for success when you plant your next tree?  Proper watering is the answer!  For more information on all types of plat care topics,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resource:
Gilman, E. F. & Sadowski L. (2014) Planting and establishing trees.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.


Wednesday, February 3, 2016

A ribbon palm for your landscape


With all the palms to choose from in our area, selecting one to fit your landscape and our climate can be challenging.  Fortunately, the Charlotte County UF/IFAS Extension Office can assist.  This week I would like to recommend a uncommon palm that I think more people should try – the ribbon palm.  Stately, exotic and dependably hardy for our area, the ribbon palm is worth a look.

Originally from Australia, ribbon palms grow really well in our section of Florida.  Hardy down to at least twenty degrees F, or USDA Hardiness 9 to 11, you do not have to worry about freezes with this palm.  Growing upwards to thirty-feet tall, we have had a ribbon palm in our Demonstration Garden for years and it is likely at least twenty-five feet in height.  The ribbon palm is very graceful, not only because of its slender build and equally balanced crown, but also due to its unique ribbon-like fronds that give the canopy an almost weeping appearance.  The fronds are split into many segments that look like dangling ribbons.  The leaf stem is armed with short teeth, so be careful when handling.

Plant your ribbon palm in a full sun to part shade area in well-drained soil.  Water to get the palm established, but consider it drought tolerant thereafter.  Small specimens can be kept in containers, but relatively fast growth will have you looking for a permanent site in short order.  Use ribbon palms as single specimens, planted in groups of three or along the front of a building.  Perhaps one of the nicest plantings in our area is in front of the Mid-County Regional Library on Forrest Nelson Boulevard.   These have been in for several years and nicely frame one side of the front entrance.


Where can you find a ribbon palm in our area?  Occasionally they may be found in the local box store garden centers, otherwise, check the  local family-run nurseries for a selection of these fine palms.  For more information on all types of palms suitable for local area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:
McKenzie, M., Andreu, M. G., Friedman, M. H. & Quintana, H. V. (2013) Livistona decipiens, Ribbon Fan Palm.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Scheper, J. (2009) Livistona decipiens, Floridata.com, Tallahassee, FL. 

Monday, February 1, 2016

Silver buttonwood – a sterling idea!


The silver buttonwood is a Florida native plant known for its silvery leaves and asymmetrical form that makes both a great small tree or a fine subject for a hedge.  Unlike the normal green buttonwood, the silver buttonwood leaves are covered in soft, silky hairs that give the silvery appearance making  this plant such a great landscape selection.  Useful in so many ways, the silver buttonwood   is a notable landscape plant.

The silver buttonwood is a naturally occurring variety found in some Florida coastal environments.  Growing upwards to twenty-feet tall with a similar width, this plant can be used as a small tree for a patio or a deck in a raised container.  More often than not, silver buttonwoods are planted as informal privacy screens or a neatly clipped formal hedge. In addition to the silvery leaves, the reddish-brown button-like fruits are also attractive and noticeable.

Keep in mind that silver buttonwood is hardy in zones 10 to 11.  This being the case, in some colder areas of Charlotte County, winter freeze damage could be experienced.  I know this firsthand as I had two specimens in Port Charlotte freeze back twice to the point where they did not recover.  However, there are many inland microclimates that you can take advantage of to keep your silver buttonwood warmer during cold spells.  This woody plant does extremely well as a seaside planting (where it would normally be warmer) and is very salt-tolerant.  It also takes a variety of soil environments and wet or dry conditions.   



The attributes of the silver buttonwood make it a sterling idea for your landscape!  For more information on all types of trees and shrubs suitable for our area , please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:
Brown, S. H. (2011) Conocarpus erectus.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Lee County.
Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus: Silver Buttonwood.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Christman, S. (2004) Conocarpus erectus var. sericeus.  Floridata.com. Tallahassee, FL.

Ouch, ouch, and ouch!


If you have encountered a sandbur, you know the annoyance of it clinging to your socks, and the pain of those spiky seed heads piecing your flesh.  Little dogs may even come in contact with these nasty hitchhikers from time to time.  An annual grass by nature, this weed can infest lawns and become the scourge of your yard.  What can you do about these pesky and hurtful weeds?

Although there are eight species of this weedy grass, the most common sandburs we have in our area are the Southern Sandbur and the Coast or Field Sandbur.  Starting out hiding in plain sight as just another grass plant, by fall and early winter those telltale spiked seed heads are at sock height and ready to cling on for a ride to another location so as to expand their territory.  Each of these medieval, mace-shaped seed capsules can contain up to three seeds which are ready and willing to sprout and start the next generation. 

Part of making sandburs unwelcome guests to your lawn is to use good cultural practices to keep your turf in good order – proper mowing height, good fertilization, irrigation, etc.  Healthy, vigorous grass will often out-compete weeds which are more likely to flourish in less-than-ideal conditions.  Research mentions that sandbur seeds actually grow better when nitrogen is minimal. 

One tool that can be used to help reduce your sandbur outbreak is a pre-emergent herbicide.  Pre-emergent herbicides actually kill the weed seed before it is able to germinate.  A window of opportunity to apply these materials is open on or about February 1st .  Care must be taken when selecting and applying these chemicals.  An herbicide that can be used on St. Augustine grass is called atrazine.  While you can use atrazine on St. Augustine, it should not be used on Bahia grass as damage can occur.  A pre-emergent that you can apply to Bahia grass is called oryzaline.  As with all pesticides, read the label, the label is the law and you are responsible for the safe application of these pesticides. 

One last option I heard about which is non-chemical, but it sounds interesting.  Take a sheet of burlap and drag it across the lawn in the sandbur-infested areas.  The spiny seed heads will stick on and then can be collected and destroyed – it may be worth a try.

Sandburs are a problem that can be managed with cultural and chemical practices to minimize the “ouch-factor.”   Protect your fingers, feet and little dog paws by taking action against the dreaded sandbur today!  For more on turf weed suppression, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:
Culbert, D. (2003) Sticky Sandspur.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Okeechobee County.
Smith, H., Ferrell, J. & Sellers, B. (2015) Identification and Control of Southern Sandbur (Cenchrus echinatus L.) in Hayfields.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
McAfee, J. A. (2016) Controlling Sandbur (Grassbur) in Turfgrass. Texas A &M University Extension Service. 
Trenholm, L. E., Unruh, J. B. & Cisar, J. L. (2015) Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.
Trenholm, L. E., Unruh, J. B. & Cisar, J. L. (2014) St. Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Unruh, J. B., Leon R. G.,. Brecke, B. J & Trenholm L. E. (2015) Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.