Sing the praises of the ‘Song -of- India’

Former houseplants from the north can often find their way outside in our landscapes here in Southwest Florida.  Once of those is the Reflexed Dracaena which is considered an ornamental evergreen multi-stemmed shrub sometimes obtaining small tree size.  There are many cultivars of Reflexed Dracaena available, but perhaps one of the most eye-catching type is called ‘Song-of-India’.  This variety is beautifully variegated and brings a tropical flair to the landscape.

To start, the ‘Song-of-India’ is a bit cold sensitive and will not appreciate temperatures below thirty-four degrees Fahrenheit.  As such, it is best to grow this plant in the warmer areas of Charlotte County or in identified microclimates.  Otherwise,  be prepared to cover it for protection or have it in a container that can be moved under indoors when needed. It does make a great patio, lanai or indoor plant in a large container.   The ‘Song-of-India’ can grow unpruned to over eight feet tall with irregular, multi-stemmed branches and somewhat slow growth.  Each leaf is four to six inches long with interesting variegation.  Young leaves start out green with distinct yellow margins.  As the leaves age, the darker green portion becomes lighter  and the margins blend in with a creamy color and more stripes.  The leaves are arranged in an attractive spiral pattern up the stem.  As the leaves age out and drop, the stem is bare and patterned with the remains of the leaf scares.  At maturity, the ‘Song-of-India’ will actually produce a panicle of flowers consisting of small green to yellow, almost inconspicuous blossoms. For a slightly different color pattern, try ‘Song-of-Jamaica’, a cultivar with stripes of darker and lighter green variegation.

If used in a formal tropical landscape, select a site in a part-sun to bright filtered  light location not exposed to salty conditions – this plant is not salt-tolerant.  As a container grown plant, step it up into continuously larger pots as it grows using a sterile potting medium with good drainage.  Larger containers can even be put on platforms with wheels for easy moving. 

Propagation is very easy using cuttings.  Cuttings are a great way to share this plant with friends as a pass-along plant. The ‘Song-of-India’ can be considered pest-free and a very sustainable plant.   When you see one, you will want one!  For more information on all types of plants suitable for both landscapes and containers, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Brown, S. H. ( 2013) Dracaena reflexa  ‘Song-of India’.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Lee County.

Gilman, E. F. ( 2014) Dracaena reflexa Reflexed Dracaena.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Lee County.

The queen’s wreath – an appropriate name

Plants that bear the name “Queen” or “King” are often appropriately labeled because of their royal nature.  None could be better named than the Queen’s Wreath or Petrea volubilis.  This magnificent flowering vine is in flower now.  If you have one, enjoy!  For the rest of us, why should we be envious?

The Queen’s Wreath is also called sandpaper vine due to its truly sandpapery leaves.  This evergreen to  deciduous vine is native to Mexico and south into tropical America and the Caribbean, and can grow up to forty feet tall unpruned.  Best maintained as a vine-like shrub, a vine trained on an arbor, or even a free-standing small tree, this plant will flower on and off from February to June.  We have one blooming right now in our Demonstration Garden off of Harbor View Road, and I see one in flower as well at the History Park in Punta Gorda.  The distinctive purple flowers are clustered on racemes up to fourteen inches long.  The individual flowers are made up of a center corolla nestled in a calyx.  Both are purple-blue in color and even after the center corolla falls off, the calyx remains and maintains its attractive appearance.  For something different, there is a rare white cultivar with the same growth habits called ‘Albiflora’.   The Queen’s Wreath is even listed as a Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ recommended  plant.

While I have this vine for sale at the larger garden centers on occasion, you could also look for one at the local family-run garden centers.  Plan before you plant as you will want to decide how you will manage your Queen’s Wreath.  Our Extension specimen is supported on a wooden pergola which nicely displays its beauty.  Maintaining this plant as a shrub or small, multi-branched tree will require some pruning.  Also consider  using it along a fence, across a gate, in a large container, a gazebo, or even free-form up a tree.  No matter how you groom your sandpaper vine, plant it in full sun to part shade for best flowering.  Once established, consider this vine to be medium in drought tolerance, but otherwise very carefree and hardy for our area. 

Are you jealous yet?  This is a truly royal flowering vine!  Our Queen’s Wreath is so spectacular that I can even see it from the road! For more information on all types of flowering vines suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Brown, S. H. (2013) Petrea volubilis.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Lee County

Gardening Solutions (2017) Queen’s Wreath.  The University of Florida Extension Service

Gilman, E. F. ( 1999) Petrea volubilis.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

Gulf Coast Research and Education Center Plant City Teaching Garden. (2017)  Queen’s Wreath.  Petrea volubilis. 

The Florida-Friendly Landscaping Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design (2010) The University of Florida Extension Services, IFAS.  

Trumpet trees herald spring

The yellow flowers of late winter are in bloom across the county with eye-catching beauty that reinforces the appreciation for our subtropical climate.     What are these ornamental trees that explode with canary-yellow blossoms at this time?  They are one or more species of Tabebuia with names such as the Golden Trumpet tree, the Silver Trumpet tree, and the Yellow Trumpet tree.  All of these trees are small to medium in height and are putting on quite a show right now!

Tabebuia are flowering trees native to tropical America and are valued landscape ornamentals seen throughout South and Central Florida.  The one known as the Silver Trumpet tree is a bit cold tender and better adapted to the warmer parts (and microclimates) of Charlotte County and southward.  The Golden Trumpet tree and the Yellow Trumpet tree are better able to tolerate low winter temperatures here and further north.  The huge blossoms of each type are over three-inches long and about one-inch wide.  These flowers are funnel-like in shape and are arranged in clusters for maximum showiness.  Tabebuia trees are deciduous to semi-deciduous trees in nature making the flower show a pleasant surprise on an otherwise bare woody plant.  The yellow flowers are followed by long seed pods which also have some ornamental interest.  The Silver Trumpet tree has a natural asymmetrical trunk and light-colored, deeply furrowed bark adding to its attractive appearance.  The other two types are more open in growth and are upright in stature.  The leaves on all of these trees are palmate in shape with multiple leaflets. 

Locate trumpet trees in a full sun to part-shade area with well-drained, but moderately moist soil.  All the yellow Tabebuia tend to develop brittle wood as they age.  As such, wind damage can be an issue.  Proper pruning may help train a tree to be more wind-resistant over its lifetime.  Use Tabebuia as a specimen tree in a lawn area where it will best be seen and admired in season. 

Remember the Yellow Trumpet trees as you plan out your landscape – they are Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ recommended plants and real show-offs!  For more information on flowering ornamental trees suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Brown, S. H. (2015) Three Yellow Tabebuia Trees of South and Central Florida.  The University of Florida Extension Services, IFAS – Lee County.

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Tabebuia chrysotricha: Golden Trumpet Tree.  The University of Florida Extension Services, IFAS. 

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Tabebuia caraiba: Trumpet Tree.  The University of Florida Extension Services, IFAS.

The Florida-Friendly Landscaping Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design (2010) The University of Florida Extension Services, IFAS.  

Go subtropical with loquats

One really great subtropical fruit related to apples, pears, and peaches that grows well in our area is the loquat. Not to be mistaken for kumquats (a type of citrus) I see the tempting orange loquat fruit displayed at this time of year across Charlotte County landscapes. With a bit of a dry season this year, my loquats were a smaller, but extremely sweet!  Hardy, tropical-looking and an edible ornamental, the loquat should be a small tree in every yard. 

The loquat, also known as the Japanese plum or Japanese medlar, is really an underappreciated small tree. Originally grown in China for a thousand years, this handsome tree was introduced to Florida around 1879 where it is mainly a door yard fruit. While loquats are not a crop in Florida, California actually has some small-scale commercial loquat production. Loquats can grow up to 25 feet tall with long leaves (up to 12 inches) that are dark green and leathery to the touch. White fragrant flowers appear from October to February from the rounded canopy of this evergreen tree. Loquats make great trees where overhead space is limited or as a specimen tree or a patio shade tree. While able to tolerate partial shade, this tree will do best in full sun and accommodates nicely to our higher pH soils.

If ornamental foliage is your main goal, try a cultivar called 'Coppertone' which has copper-colored new foliage with pale pink flowers – a very different look!  Another interesting cultivar available is 'Variegata', which has white and green variegated leaves. I have only seen this cultivar in pictures, so it appears to be very rare.  There is another species of loquat called Eriobotrya deflexa or Bronze Loquat which has bright red-bronze or coppery color young foliage, but small inedible fruit.

If fruit is what you are looking for, there are several selected cultivars that provide superior tasting fruit. Keep in mind that loquats can be easily propagated by seed. However, these plants do not produce true from seed and may take up to six years to bear. Superior grafted varieties that produce ripe fruit in February/March include 'Champagne' with yellow skinned, white-fleshed, tart fruit; 'Emanuel' with mildly sweet, good flavored fruit and 'Wolfe' which is sweet-tart, with a good spicy flavor. These grafted loquats will begin to produce in 1-2 years. Loquat fruits are excellent eaten fresh or made into jelly, jam, preserves and pies. The oval/round to pear-shaped fruit grows in clusters of 4-30. The loquat peel is smooth to slightly fuzzy and light yellow to orange in color. The juicy flesh is white to orange and tastes sweet to sub-acid. The flavor and texture reminds me somewhat of an apricot. Watch out - there are 1-10 fairly large seeds in each of the 1-2 inch fruits. Fruit must be tree-ripened for the best flavor. A mature tree may bear from 35-300 pounds of fruit per tree per year.

While loquats are considered somewhat “short-lived” trees living only 20-30 years, I would recommend them for every landscape.  Late February and March starts the season for this fruit when few other fruits are readily available. Try this tree and its tasty fruit this year! For more information on all types of fruit trees and other gardening issues, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E.F. & Watson, D.G. (2016) Eriobaotrya japonica: Loquat, UF/IFAS Extension Service.

Gilman, E.F. & Watson, D.G. (2014) Eriobotrya deflexa: Bronze Loquat, UF/IFAS Extension Service.

Gilman, E.F. & Watson, D.G. (2016) Eriobotrya japonica 'Coppertone': 'Coppertone' Loquat, UF/IFAS

Extension Service.

Gilman, E.F. & Watson, D.G. (2016), Eriobotrya japonica 'Variegata': 'Variegata' Loquat UF/IFAS Extension Service.

Crane, J.H. and Caldeira, M.L. (2016), Loquat Growing in the Florida Home Landscape, UF/IFAS Extension Service.

Your friendly neighborhood sausage tree

By all accounts, the sausage tree is perhaps one of the most unusual large trees in our area.  There are not too many in Charlotte County to begin with which is understandable in light of its large size and gigantic dangling sausage-shaped fruit.  You may have seen at least one in Punta Gorda, and I saw one in Naples the other day which spurred my interest in writing this article.  Is there a sausage tree in your neighborhood?

The sausage tree is originally from tropical Africa where it is widely used as a food source by many animals including giraffes, monkeys, hippos, and bush pigs.  Bats and nocturnal insect pollinators visit the large flowers at night and large bees use them by day.  Certain birds also eat the seeds, and the leaves are fed on by elephants and certain antelopes.  Keep in mind however, that the fruit is toxic to humans.   The tree is highly ornamental and has been grown around the world in tropical regions.  With grey, smooth to peeling bark and pinnate evergreen leaves, the sausage tree is a specimen worthy of a botanical garden collection.  The flowers are also very ornamental as they hang in clustered panicles.  These flowers, bell-like in shape, are reddish in color and over three inches wide.  It is the fruit of course that makes a sausage tree, a sausage tree.  Described as a “woody berry”, these sausage-like, over two-foot long and fifteen pound fruits remind me of gigantic corn-dogs hanging from long, stout stems.  Unfortunately, the falling fruit is a hazard and can drop on people and cars causing damage, so select your tree site carefully!

This large tree can grow upwards to fifty feet tall and wide and is best grown in a hardiness zone of at least 10a unless you have identified a warm micro-climate.  Not a tree that would fit a normal residential lot, consider this woody ornamental for more expansive sites with plenty of room to grow this exceedingly unique tree.  Maybe the sausage tree is not your cup of tea, but it is still fascinating and a conversation piece.  So, perhaps just plan to visit your closest sausage tree in a neighborhood near you!  For more information on all types of exotic ornamental trees, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

National Gardening Association (2017) Sausage Tree (Kigelia africana)

Wikipedia (2017) Kigelia 

Weep no more – the weeping bottlebrush is here!

Several types of the plant genus Callistemon, or bottlebrush, are common sights in many local grounds.  In fact, there are several species well-adapted to Southwest Florida that have been grown here successfully for many years.  This article will highlight the Weeping Bottlebrush, Callistemon viminalis – a tree sure to add interest to any landscape.

The mature Weeping Bottlebrush in full bloom is a spectacular sight!  This is a small to medium-sized tree that can grow to about twenty feet in height and width.  This tree is best used in full sun and needs a moist, but still well drained soil, as the roots will rot in a wet location.  While a good yard tree, the weeping habit and pendulous branches should be kept in mind if cars are parked nearby or if people must pass by the planting site.  It is this weeping habit, however, that makes this tree so spectacular.  Just like many other “weeping” trees, the branches hang downward with limber twigs displayed in an almost umbrella-like fashion.   Weeping trees are normally mutations that were discovered and cultivated – some may even be grafted to accentuate the weeping appearance.  One particularly excellent cultivar of weeping bottlebrush is 'Red Cascade' which has large red flowers from March through July with lesser blossoming the rest of the year.  Even without flowers, this parasol-like tree is amazing.

This bottlebrush is an excellent hummingbird plant with very bright red flower spikes that are a natural attractant to these birds.  The flowers make a real show in season and are followed by long-lasting, interesting fruit capsules.  The plant is evergreen and does not produce a litter problem.  This bottlebrush is also very drought tolerant once established.  The weeping bottlebrush, like other bottlebrush trees, does not tolerate soil that is too alkaline, however.

Take a closer look at this eye-catching woody plant.  Once you have seen the brilliant flower display and graceful weeping nature, you will be convinced that this bottlebrush, a Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant, will make your landscape complete!  For more information on all types of flowering trees, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Callistemon viminalis 'Red Cascade' Weeping Bottlebrush, The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design (2010) the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Christman, S. (2007) Callistemon viminalis.  Floridata.com, Tallahassee, FL.

A different type of oregano – ornamental and edible

Dual purpose plants are a boon to landscapes where gardeners are looking for vegetation that provides both edible and ornamental features.  I first encountered the Cuban Oregano when I lived in the West Indies where it was called things like “Thick-Leaved Thyme” or “Big Thyme.” Also called “Vicks© Salve”, “Vicks© Plant”, “Mexican Mint”, “Indian Borage” and “Spanish Thyme”, Cuban oregano is a wonderful plant suitable for our area.  Have you seen the Cuban oregano or is it already in your garden? 

Originally from Southern and Eastern Africa, this perennial plant is noted for its aromatic leaves.  The large thick and velvety leaves are grey-green in color, while the variegated cultivar is edged in white with an attractive blotchy lighter/darker green interior.  Growing upwards to nineteen inches tall and spreading much wider, the Cuban oregano grows rapidly and eventually produces stems of purplish flowers.  I planted one rooted cutting of Cuban oregano and it easily filled in a five by five foot patch of garden over one summer season.   Not only does this plant make a good groundcover in your herb garden, but also is an excellent container plant when complemented with other herbs. 

Grow Cuban oregano in well-drained soil in a semi-shaded area.  This plant does not tolerate frost and will need protection during cold weather.  Once established, this very succulent perennial plant will need to be watered only sparingly. 

Use this herb according to your tastes and needs.  The camphor and menthol scent can be overpowering if used in excess, so carefully flavor with Cuban oregano.  While you may find Cuban oregano at local garden centers, I find that there are specimens available at almost every community plant sale - that is where I purchased mine – or just pick up a cutting or two from a gardening friend.  Cuban oregano is a true pass-along plant that has certainly traveled the world based on its popularity.

So, try to have at least one Cuban oregano plant in your yard to look at, use in cooking, or simply brush by to release its refreshing fragrance.  Its many uses will make you a fan for life!  For information on all types of herbs easily grown in our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gardening Solutions- Cuban Oregano – The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

Jordi, R. (2006) Cuban oregano.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Wikipedia.com (2017) Plectranthus amboinicus.  

When is a honeysuckle not a honeysuckle?

A flowering shrub that always caught my eye is called the Cape Honeysuckle.  The Cape honeysuckle is a vigorous evergreen shrub that produces reddish orange, apricot-orange, salmon-orange, or yellow tubular flowers.  Originally from South Africa, the Cape honeysuckle is not a true honeysuckle, its flowers simply resemble this other well-loved plant.  A wonderful fall/winter bloomer, the cape honeysuckle is a flowering treat. 

By nature, the Cape honeysuckle is a very vigorous grower best suited for full sun with well-drained, average soil.  Once established, they are pretty drought tolerant and take salt spray well.  In addition to the glossy green foliage, the flowers are attractive to butterflies such as Sulphur butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. 

You can get the Cape honeysuckle in four color cultivars.  The red one is most common and is very vigorous growing well over twelve feet if left unpruned.  You could almost consider this shrub vine-like and train its sprawling growth by attaching it to a fence.  The Cape honeysuckle can also be trained as an espalier, over walls, or over an arch.  For more compact growth, the salmon-orange cultivar is a good selection.  The color really appealed to me as did the more controllable growth.  This cultivar still needs some pruning to keep it in bounds, but otherwise it is very manageable.  In addition to these varieties, there is an apricot version with orange pinkish flowers, and a nice clear yellow cultivar which rounds out a nice choice of colors. 

While you will get a smattering of blooms throughout theb year, fall and winter flowering will be most abundant.  The Cape honeysuckle is extremely easy to propagate by softwood cuttings and/or seeds.  The shrub also has the ability to root when the branches lay on the ground while still attached to the mother plant. 

The Cape honeysuckle is an amazing flowering shrub that should have a niche in your landscape!  For more information on all types of flowering shrubs suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

 Resources:

Christman, S. (2008)  Tecomaria capensis.  Floridata.com, Tallahassee, FL.

Gulf Coast Research and Education Center Plant City Teaching Garden. (2016) Cape Honeysuckle Tecoma capensis.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Lemke, C.  (2012) Cal's Plant of the Week:  Tecomaria capensis - Cape Honeysuckle .  The University of Oklahoma Department of Microbiology & Plant Biology. 

Padded cactus – watch the spines and especially the glochids!

Did you know that we have a native prickly pear cactus?  It is called the Eastern Prickly pear and is found along the East Coast and in parts of the Mid-West.  This low-growing species has attractive yellow flowers and grows in a spreading clump.   Prickly pears or Opuntia such as the Eastern Prickly Pear are classic cactus all native to the New World.  In addition to cultivated ornamental oddities suitable for succulent gardens, some types are even used and grown commercially for food.

All Opuntia are similar in form- generally round to oval, flat to cylindrical connecting pads studded with spines and smaller glochids.  The glochids are particularly irritating tiny spines that can imbed tenaciously to both your cloths and skin.  On the opposite end of the spectrum, some types of Opuntia are spineless or practically so.  Beyond the attractive structural pads which make up the plant, spring flowers in red, yellow, orange or pink are an added welcome feature.  These are in turn followed by attractive edible fruits in shades of red, yellow and orange. These berries are up to three inches long and mature in summer.  They have their own set of tiny irritating glochid spines that must be gingerly prepared.  Peeling the skin off the fruit reveals sweet tart flesh with plenty of seeds.  Special low-spine varieties are grown specifically for the production of nopales and used as vegetable. 

Prick pears do best in sunny sites with well-drained sandy soil.  They are well-adapted to alkaline soils and even tolerate coastal conditions and rock garden habitats.  If they are in a low area where water accumulates after a rain, they will most likely rot out in short order.  While used mostly as a unique specimen, Opuntia may be purposely placed as a protective barrier that no one will want to cross.  Handled carefully with heavy gloves or padded tools made from rolled-up newspaper, these cactus can be moved and planted with relative safety.  Propagation is as easy as simply taking pads removed from the mother plant.  Allow these pieces to dry and callus off at the cut end.  Propagate in moist sand for easy and rapid rooting. 

One of the few pests that your prickly pear may encountered is a certain caterpillar that only feeds on prickly pear cactus.  Appropriately named the Cactoblastus moth, these orange and black spotted caterpillars bore in and hollow out cactus pads.  Secondary rots set in and destroy the pads.  The only control is to remove the infested pads (which may contain numerous caterpillars) and destroy it.  Interestingly enough, this Argentinian moth has been used as a biocontrol in some counties where Opuntia cacti are an invasive pest.

All in all, the Opuntia cactus is an interesting ornamental with edible features.  Carefully handled, specimens can make attractive landscape features.  For more information on all types of cacti suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resource:

Culbert, D. (2006) Prickly Pear for Pain and Pleasure.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Okeechobee County.

The blackberry-lily – a dependable perennial

One flowering perennial plant that does well in our area is the blackberry-lily. We have a planting at our East Port Environmental Campus and it has done excellent!  Often called leopard-lily because of the spotted flowers, the blackberry-lily is really named after the mature inedible fruit that is shaped like a blackberry. A member of the Iris family, the blackberry-lily is a colorful and durable perennial that needs to be planted in more of our local landscapes. If you have never seen a blackberry-lily, the following description will help you appreciate this plant.

Growing at least two feet tall, the leaves of the blackberry-lily are like those of an iris. During our warmer months, the flowers bloom vigorously, lasting only a day or two, but are followed by a constant supply of new blooms. The two-inch flowers are bright orange-yellow in color with reddish spots. A fruit then develops in the form of a three-chambered capsule that opens when ripe to reveal a set of clustered black seeds looking just like a blackberry. This long-lasting seed cluster is often used in dried flower arrangements. While in the northern parts of Florida blackberry-lilies perform as a short-lived perennials, in our area they are evergreen. In the landscape, use blackberry-lilies as a groundcover, along a walkway or in mass planting as a focal accent. In a mass planting, set individual plants about three feet apart for best coverage. While blackberry-lilies like full sun, these perennials have the ability to flower abundantly even in partial shade. One source even indicates that they do best in light to moderate shade in our climate – I would recommend this. In fact, leaf scorch can occur during the summer in full sun, so keep this in mind when picking a planting site. Plant these lilies in a well-drained site with plenty of organic matter. Well-drained soil is a must as crown rots can develop in wet soils. Blackberry-lilies are drought-tolerant once they are established and are considered Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plants.

Blackberry-lilies can get crowded as they develop into larger clumps and will benefit from division from time to time – every third or fourth year – to encourage top flower production. Seeds can also be germinated to produce more plants. There are other blackberry-lily relatives sometimes available including the dwarf blackberry-lily and candy-lilies. The dwarf blackberry-lily only grows about 12 inches tall and has yellow flowers occasionally spotted with orange. Candy-lilies are hybrids that produce spotted or streaked flowers in many different colors including red, orange, blue, purple, pink and yellow in single and bicolor cultivars. They are much more colorful than the other blackberry-lily relatives and are worth growing. Where can you find these perennials? Check at local garden centers or explore mail-order Internet sources. If you don’t see them locally, ask to see if a garden center will order them. If you like perennials, blackberry-lilies are a good selection!  For more information on all types of perennials suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Garofalo, J. (2002) Blackberry-lily, A Flowering Perennial for South Florida. Miami-Dade County - the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E.F. (2014) Belamcanda chinensis. UF/IFAS Extension Service.

The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design (2010) the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

The wheel bug is a real bug

One fairly large true bug found throughout Florida (and Charlotte County) is called the wheel bug.  The wheel bug is a true bug (Hemiptera) growing well over one-inch long.  This insect is called a wheel bug because of the stunning crest on the thorax that reminds one of a cogged wheel.  An interesting large insect in its own right, the wheel bug is also know to deliver a bite more painful than a bee sting if handled.  To its favor, the wheel bug is also a superior beneficial insect feeding on many landscape pests.  Have you seen one?

To see an adult wheel bug is to see a strange creature which is dark brown to gray in color with long legs, long antennae and a long, wicked-looking robust curved beak attached to its narrow head sporting beady eyes.  The crest is also very noticeable almost looking like a small chicken comb attached to its back.  The females are larger than the males and lay eggs side-by-side in large clusters above ground level.  The eggs actually look just like tiny brown bottles with while stoppers.  The eggs hatch into miniature versions of the adults (minus the crest) called nymphs.  The nymphs are red and black in color and are voracious feeders of aphids and defoliating caterpillars.  They are also known to be cannibalistic and may feed on each other in a pinch.  Adult females have also been known to eat males after breeding.  Being a member of the stinkbug family, they also have the ability to release a pungent odor if bothered.

It is not likely that you will want to bother this beneficial assassin bug.  As mentioned earlier, the bite inflicted by the stabbing beak injects a toxic salvia that causes a stinging sensation worse than most stinging insects.  The bite may remain numb for several days becoming red and hot to the touch.  The spot may turn white and hard and slough off leaving a small hole.  Complete healing may take up to two weeks.  Seek emergency medical assistance if any allergic  reactions occur. 

The moral of this story is to remember not to handle a wheel bug.  These insects have beneficial qualities as a biological control for some insect  pests, but they do not want you to handle them!   Enjoy them from a safe distance!  For more information on all types of beneficial insects, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resource: 

Mead, F. W. (2014) Wheel Bug, Arilus cristatus (Linnaeus) Insecta: Hemiptera: Reduviidae). The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

New year’s gardening resolutions for 2017

We all need to look towards the future for personal improvement and goal setting.  The backyard gardener should be no different and the New Year is a great time to make some resolutions that will benefit any landscape.  Let's look at some tips, techniques and strategies that will make your horticultural experience in Southwest Florida the best in 2017.

Your first resolution should be to water properly. 

Ø  Water your lawn and other plants only when they show signs of stress. 

Ø  Calibrate your sprinkler(s) to apply 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water per application.

Ø  Mow lawns high to encourage a deeper, more drought and pest tolerant root system.  

Ø  Use a drip or micro-spray irrigation system to more efficiently water plant and flower beds.

Secondly, feed your palms correctly.    Nutritional deficiencies not only lead to unthrifty looking plants, but may also to the eventual death of the palm.  All of these nutrients must be provided in proper balance for good growth and healthy plants. A complete palm fertilizer in a slow-release formula is the best maintenance fertilizer to use on a regular basis as per the label instructions.  Broadcast the fertilizer under the canopy and not up against the trunk or in thick bands.  As a general recommendation, we suggest that you get your palm on a granular fertilizer - 8-2-12-4 (or 8-0-12-4) applied in November, February and May as per label directions.  In August, use a 0-0-16-6, again as per label directions.

Next, make sure to prune your palms responsibly.  Palms need to retain all of their good, functional leaves.  These leaves are the "solar panels" of the palm- food making devises needed to keep the plant alive.  Premature removal of good fronds unnecessarily weakens these plants which may predispose them to secondary problems.  What are some acceptable reasons for pruning a palm?  Removing dead fronds makes the palm look better and improves the overall appearance of the landscape.  Dead fronds which are loosely attached to the palm may fall and injure people or damage property.  Removing flower/fruit clusters is also fine.  Over-pruning can be detrimental to a palm, however. "Hurricane cuts", as they are called, stresses the palm to a point where there is an increased chance of disease and insect invasion.    New fronds take time to emerge and green fronds should be protected and preserved. 

Next, resolve to plant the "right plant, in the right place".   Sensible selection of plant materials based on some knowledge of the plant is always best.  For example, a shade-loving plant will not do well in a full-sun site.  A plant that requires a somewhat drier environment may rot in a site regularly watered.  A tree that may grow up to sixty-foot tall and over one-hundred feet wide would not be a good choice planted next to a house.  Get to know your plant materials and analyze your site before you plant.  Let our Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ program (FFL) help you with this!

In 2017, use pesticides properly! Key to the proper use of a pesticide is making sure to READ THE LABEL, THE LABEL IS THE LAW!  The pesticide label is a legal document that must be followed to the letter. The label gives you a wealth of information such as which pests it will control, what hosts it can be applied to, how to mix the chemical, when it should it be applied, how much and how often and how to protect yourself and the environment.  Each label will contain a Signal Word that will call attention to the degree of toxicity of each individual pesticide.  For instance, a Caution label indicates that it is slightly toxic.  A Warning signal word will indicate a pesticide that is moderately toxic.   For a home garden, stick to materials with Caution labels to help minimize safety issues or use suggested non-toxic cultural controls.

The last resolution that I would like you to ponder for 2017 is to get to know your bugs, especially good bugs.  Good bugs can also be called beneficial insects.  Beneficial bugs are all around us and help maintain the balance of nature as it relates to insect pests in and around our landscape.  A lady beetle eating an aphid is an example of this. These insects are generally orange with black spots but may also appear in shades of brown, red or black, with or without spots.  The larvae look like a miniature alligator with a scaly, elongated black and orange body.  Both adults and larvae eat aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, whiteflies, and mites.  Another beneficial insect is known as the lacewing.  In both brown and green forms, this insect produces a larva built for killing and eating aphids.  Large pincher mouthparts grab prey and suck fluids from them.  Let our office help you identify good and bad bugs. 

Are you ready for 2017?  Let the Charlotte County Extension Service help you with all of your horticultural educational needs.  For more information on all types of gardening subjects, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:  http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/

The kalanchoe – blazing holiday color

Have you seen the colorful flowering succulents called kalanchoes in garden centers nestled amongst the poinsettias, Christmas cacti, and Norfolk Island pines?  Kalanchoes offer long-lasting florescent flowers which make a great holiday gift plant.  This Holiday gift plant keeps on giving as it can be put in the landscape for re-bloom purposes next season. 

There are many, many types of kalanchoe in cultivation with over one-hundred and twenty-five species available.  The kalanchoe known as Kalanchoe blossfeldiana  is native to Madagascar and was introduced in 1932 by Robert Blossfeld.    Grown for its red, pink, yellow, white and salmon flowers, the species  is named after Mr. Blossfeld, a German hybridizer.   This plant blooms as a result of shorter days at this time of year just like poinsettias.  The small, four-petaled flowers are arranged in clusters that combine to make a stunning flower head.  Indoors as a potted plant, the flowers will last for some time when kept in a bright sunny area.  Do not overwater as root rots can develop.  Allow the soil to dry between waterings and make sure to take off any decorative foil wrap to ensure proper drainage. 

Once the weather has settled sometime in March, your kalanchoe can be planted outside in a full sun to part shade  location.   Gradually adjust the plant to outdoor conditions as it can otherwise sunburn.   Well-drained soil is essential and once established, the kalanchoe can be considered highly drought tolerant and recommended as a Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant.  The glossy scalloped leaves will serve as a groundcover of sorts during the summer when there will be few if any flowers.  Kalanchoes will also look good in rock gardens, in raised planters and in stand-alone containers.  Once the day length begins to shorten in October, new flower buds will begin to develop.  Now while Holiday kalanchoes may have had their daylight artificially manipulated to induce flowering, outdoor specimens will adapt to the natural light cycles and most likely begin to bloom in January and then on through spring.  They can be cold sensitive and will most likely require some frost/freeze protection if cold weather settles in. 

While most kalanchoes can grow up to one-foot tall, there are some named dwarf cultivars such as ‘Pumila’ and ‘Tetra Vulcan’.  Otherwise the color selection is based on your taste.  Both single and double-flowering varieties are available in a range of almost florescent colors.  The kalanchoe is just another nice Holiday plant to consider as a gift to others or for yourself!  For more information on all types of plants suitable for gift-giving, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. (2014) Kalanchoe blossfeldiana .  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Trinklein, D. H. (2014) Care of Flowering Potted Plants.  The University of Missouri Extension Service.

Winter, N. ( 2016) Kalanchoe brings top holiday color.  Mississippi State University Extension Service. 

Davenport,  M. (2007)  Kalanchoe.  Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service

The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design (2010)the University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Enjoying your poinsettia after the holidays

What seasonal plant better rings in the Holiday than the cuetlaxochitl!  For that matter, what is a cuetlaxochitl?  Would the name Euphorbia pulcherrima ring a bell?  No?  How about the poinsettia?  This holiday charmer has a rich history that equals its brilliant color.

The name “cuetlaxochitl” is the Aztec word for the poinsettia.  In fact, before the poinsettia became a famous houseplant, the Aztecs used it in their fall celebrations.  As history goes, Joel R. Poinsett, United States Ambassador to Mexico, introduced the plant to the United States in 1825.  “The most beautiful Euphorbia” or Eurphorbia pulcherrima, was well on its way to becoming a botanical and economic success story.  By 1836, the plant was known by the name poinsettia in honor of Ambassador Poinsett.

After extensive work and marketing in the plant industry including the famous Paul Ecke Ranch, the poinsettia is now an indispensable part of the Holiday season.  They are actually woody tropical perennials with colorful bracts in shades of red, white, pink, and assorted novelty multicolor types with spots or blotches.  The modified leaves or bracts are the colorful portion of the plant.  The actual flowers are insignificant - small green and yellow structures in the center of the bract cluster.  Selection of an individual plant will of course vary with your particular color desires.  Poinsettias may be multi-stemmed or single-stemmed; some are even trained into a tree-form.  Regardless, make sure that the plant is not broken and check for insects (whiteflies) and diseases before purchasing.  While we may think of the poinsettia as a pot plant, keep in mind that it does make a suitable subject for outdoor culture in our area.  Also, Poinsettias are not poisonous, although some people are mildly allergic to their sap.

After you have enjoyed your poinsettia for the Holiday, harden it off in preparation for planting outdoors by slowly acclimating it to the outside environment.  Select a full-sun planting site that will provide a moist, well-drained soil.  Very important item - locate a spot that is not near artificial light sources such as streetlights or light from windows.  If the dark period required for setting flowers is interrupted, flowers will form late or not at all.   Flower buds are usually set by early October, as the nights become longer.  Feed poinsettias monthly applications of a complete fertilizer starting in March through October.  Water as needed to keep the soil moderately moist.

Pruning will also help develop a bushy, attractive plant.  Prune poinsettias back to about eighteen inches in the early spring.  Pinch new growth when it reaches twelve inches back so that there are four leaves left per stem.  Repeat this process until September 10^th and no later.  There must be enough time for this final growth to mature before setting buds.

While poinsettias are very sensitive to cold, if freeze damage occurs, prune out the truly dead portions in March.  The remainder of the plant should recover without a problem.

Don’t be the only one without a poinsettia in your yard in 2017!  Not only can you treasure the blooms at Christmas, but also have a decent tropical shrub that will be ornamentally useful for years to come.  For more information on all types of Holiday plants, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources: 

The History of the Poinsettia (Paul Ecke Ranch), 2016.

Black, R. J., Tjia, B. & Sheehan, T. J. Poinsettias for Florida  Landscapes. University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS.

Park Brown, S. (2013) Poinsettias at a Glance. University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS

Yellow stars twinkle in the backyard garden

Some fruits are either feast or famine and the star fruit is one of those wonders.  This fall, not only was our starfruit at the East Port Environmental Campus Demonstration Garden producing, several Master Gardeners were also bringing in bags of extra fruit to share – nice!  Whether you call it carambola, star fruit or five-finger, the fruit tree known scientifically as Averrhoa carambola is exotic, tasty, and makes a nice ornamental yard tree. Why not try this tree fruit in your own back yard?

First, let me quote word for word from our UF/IFAS publication, "People who have been diagnosed with kidney disease should not eat carambola (star fruit) unless their doctor says it is safe for them to eat. This fruit may contain enough oxalic acid to cause a rapid decline in renal function." Please keep this important warning in mind.   Originally from Southeast Asia, the carambola has been grown in Florida for over one hundred years and is commercially produced in Dade, Lee, Broward, and Palm Beach counties. This fruit is commonly seen in produce departments in most grocery stores and is familiar to almost everyone. The carambola tree is small to medium in size, evergreen to semi-evergreen depending on winter temperatures and may have a single or multiple trunks. The small, but colorful pink to lavender flowers are about three-eighths of an inch long. The flowers are followed by a fleshy waxy berry from two to six-inches long with five lobbed ribs that appear star-shaped when cut in cross-section. It takes about seventy-five days from the time the fruit sets until it is ready to pick. There are also about twelve edible seeds per fruit. Carambolas really appreciate being protected from windy sites. As a matter of fact, wind damaged trees will show browning or distorted leaves, some stem dieback, fruit damage and general stunted growth. Keeping carambola trees pruned to about twelve feet tall will also help increase hurricane resistance. Select a site to plant your carambola that is in full sun, out of the wind and is well drained. If necessary, plant the tree on a mound of soil to raise it up above areas that sometimes flood. Build the mound three to four foot high and four to ten feet wide using native soil. Carambolas are not tolerant of salty conditions and also may show nutrient deficiencies in high pH soils. As the tree matures, it tolerance to cold and freezing will improve. Generally, at temperatures of twenty to twenty-four degrees Fahrenheit, large branches and even mature trees may die. Accordingly, some protection may be necessary during the coldest of our winter weather.

Carambola normally have two major crops per year ready from August through September and from December through February. There will also be scattered smaller crops. A five year old tree can produce up to one hundred pounds per tree. Mature trees can eventually supply you with over two-hundred and fifty pounds a year. It is no wonder why carambola tree owners are always giving fruit away to friends and neighbors! A complete fertilizer suitable for tropical fruits used as per label directions will keep the tree productive and healthy. In addition, foliar applications of micronutrients may be needed to ward off deficiencies. Variety selection is as much an issue of what is available in the local garden centers, and what your personal tastes are. Carambolas are either sweet or tart - some tart varieties will even sweeten up if left on the tree to ripen further. ‘Arkin’ is a cultivar that originated in Florida, has a sweet flavor and is very well suited for backyard production. ‘Lara’ is another variety from Florida that is also sometimes available. ‘Fwang Tung’ is also recommended.   Local box store garden centers and specialty nurseries regularly carry carambola.  Carambola is a great dooryard fruit tree that is easy to grow and produces an abundance of tasty fruit.  Perhaps give one as a gift to someone this Holiday Season! For more information on all types of fruit to grow in our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.   

Resource: Crane, J. H. (2013) Carambola Growing in the Florida Home Landscape. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Cousin of the lychee, the longan

The longan tree in our East Port Environmental Campus Demonstration Garden produced a good crop of fruit this year.  It is one of the few fruit trees producing fruit in August, so the small brown fruit were a welcome seasonal taste treat.  A family member of the lychee, the longan tree is an attractive evergreen all by itself – the fruit is just an added bonus!  Best grown in the warmer parts of Charlotte County or in noted microclimates, the longan may be something to try.

Originating in Southeast Asia, the longan reached our country in 1903 and has been a commercial crop in south Florida since the 1990’s. It is well adapted to the subtropics where there is a period of cool, but not freezing winters, and dry periods in the fall and winter.   Because of weather conditions, longan trees may not bear fruit every year.  In a good year, a mature tree can produce over fifty pounds of fruit.  The twelve-inch long evergreen leaves are shiny and dark green in color.  The flowers are small and arranged in what are called panicles.  The clusters of fruit that develop are round to oval and around an inch in diameter.  A brown leathery covering surrounds the white pulp which surrounds a dark brown seed.  The pulp is sweet and has a unique flavor.  Keep in mind that it takes, from flower to fruit, over one-hundred and forty days. 

Once established in a full sun site, the longan is very drought tolerant, but does not take flooding well.  The longan also does not like salty conditions which will cause leaf burn and general dieback.  As mentioned, the longan can take our subtropical climate for the most part, but can be damaged or killed when temperatures approach twenty-seven degrees F.  Growing unpruned upwards to thirty-feet tall, it should be trained to maintain a height of about fifteen feet tall.  Also consider fruit thinning.  By reducing about fifty percent of the fruit set when they are about one-quarter of an inch in the spring, each remaining fruit will be significantly bigger and more appealing.  This will help individual fruit approach the desired one and one-quarter of an inch (or bigger) diameter size which will have the most flesh and the best flavor.  Test a few fruits for taste before you harvest the entire cluster.  Longan fruit can be stored in a plastic bag in a refrigerator for up to seven days.

A number of box store garden centers regularly carry longan trees for sale.  In Florida, the number one cultivar planted is ‘Kohala’.  This has been found to be the best variety and is recommended for backyard plantings.  The biggest pest likely encountered will be birds eating the ripe fruit.  Bird netting works well to exclude the birds and protect the crop.

If you are looking for a non-citrus fruit tree to try, the longan might be a good choice for you.  Try the fruit ahead of time by visiting Pine Island tropical fruit growers in August to sample some of these tasty morsels!  For more information on all types of fruit to grow in our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.   

Resource:  Crane, J. H., Balerdi, C. F., Sargent, S. A. & Maguire, I. (2013) Longan Growing in the Florida Home Landscape.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.  

The palmetto weevil blues

“Oh no!” – was I all I could say as I noted the telltale brown fronds and slightly tilted, leaking canopy.  Our prized Bismarck palm was marked for death as masses of unseen three-inch long palmetto weevil larvae tunneled inside eating the heart out of this majestic palm.   Growing up to fifty feet tall, the stunning palm known as the Bismarck palm has become a popular landscape subject throughout Southwest Florida.  Planted as an accent specimen in many landscapes, beautiful silver-blue Bismarck palms tower over other plantings to the pride of homeowners.  Is this a good choice for your landscape? 

Originally from the island nation of Madagascar, Bismarckia nobilis have been popular landscape subjects in Southwest Florida for some time.  Potentially growing to an enormous size of up to sixty feet tall and twenty-feet wide, the Bismarck palm is widely sold in local garden centers and nurseries. The growth seen in these palms is fairly rapid and the one planted at our East Port Environmental Campus Demonstration Garden in Port Charlotte grew from a five-gallon, three foot plant to well over twenty-feet in about six years.  Site selection is very important and you should definitely “plan before you plant”.   Keep in mind that this palm often outgrows small residential lots as its gigantic proportions make everything around it look puny.  Bismarck palms are best planted in full sun on well-drained soil.  Once established, they are highly drought- tolerant and moderately salt-tolerant – good characteristics for our area.  A recommended fertilizer program for all palms includes the use of a granular 8-2-12-4 (or 8-0-12-4) in November, February and May, and a 0-0-16-6 in August, applied as per label directions.

Bismarck palms are best suited to Hardiness Zones 10A and 11.  Charlotte County has some zone 10A right along the coast, but further inland the zone changes to 9B – a potentially cooler area.  However, the Bismarck palm has been planted well out of its hardiness zone range all the way north to Orlando.  While there may be some micro-climates in these cooler areas, there is the real risk of freeze damage.  Some Bismarck palms in Charlotte County visibly suffered from freezes several years ago.  Months after these events, the Extension Office began to receive calls from heart-broken clients with failing Bismarck palms.  While some were associated with lightning strikes, many seemed to show evidence of stress due to cold damage to the bud.  This damage then led to palmetto weevil invasion and eventual collapse of Bismarck specimens in the landscape.  While we have not had a severely cold winter in a few years, Bismarck palms are still randomly dying from time to time.   Unfortunately, recent observations have indicated that even “apparently healthy” Bismarck palms may be attacked by palmetto weevils.  This was the case with our specimen.  Palmetto weevils are large beetles which are normally attracted to palms under stress.  Stressed palms give off a chemical scent picked up by passing palmetto weevils.  Once they find a suitable host, the weevils release chemicals that attract more weevils to the feast, and an infestation is born. 

It is still considered a good management practice to keep your palms healthy and stress-free (no over-pruning for example) – this should keep palmetto weevils at bay in most cases.   One band-aide approach may include a chemical option.  A root drench with Imidacloprid (a systemic insecticide) as per label directions may afford some degree of limited protection, but there are no guarantees. 

The funeral for our Bismarck palm has come and gone.  We enjoyed it as a crown jewel in our Demonstration Garden for years, but knew that we could lose it someday.  So, if you decide to plant a Bismarck in your landscape, check your hardiness zone or micro-climate options, consider the ultimate height and width of this behemoth, fertilize it properly and keep in mind that there are some factors out of your control that could limit this palm’s long-term success.  Those who already have Bismarck palms established in the landscape, keep them stress free, keep your options open on palmetto weevil deterrents, and appreciate these big blue giants!  For more information on all types of palms, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.     

Resources:

Broschat, T. K. (2016) Cold Damage on Palms.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Broschat, T. K (2015) Bismarckia nobilis: Bismarck Palm.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Weissling, T. J. & Giblin-Davis, R. M. (2016) Palmetto Weevil, Rhynchophorus cruentatus Fabricius (Insecta: Coleoptera: Curculionidae).  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Be ready for roses

My roses always do really well during this time of year.  They are blooming nicely and seem to appreciate our present slightly cooler and drier environment.  While roses produce more flowers in summer, the flowers at this time of year are actually larger and have deeper color.  Not to say roses are without their challenges!   However, if well cared for, roses in our area can bloom all year long.   With some sensible selection, maintenance and grooming, growing a rose will provide cut flowers and beauty in any setting.

You are going to be much happier with your roses if you pick types that are suited for our Florida climate.  Low-maintenance roses such as "old garden roses" and shrub roses such as David Austin Roses® and the “Knock-out®” series require minimal care.  At the other extreme, high-maintenance, modern roses such as hybrid teas, require more grooming, fertilizing, irrigation and pest management.  Selecting roses grafted on Rosa fortuniana (also called 'Double White Cherokee') rootstock will grow larger, more vigorous plants that will produce more flowers and live longer than other roses.  Second to fortuniana is ‘Dr. Huey’ rootstock followed by multiflora rootstock which has the shortest life span here in Florida.  There are some rose plants (the older shrub varieties) that are satisfactory, as are dwarf roses, un-grafted and on their own roots.  Some good low-maintenance roses to try are 'Bourbon', 'China', and 'Bermuda'.  Check local garden centers and nurseries for these roses.  You may also check with regional specialty nurseries and Internet sources.  Also consider communicating with local rose societies and The American Rose Society at http://www.ars.org .

Roses need at least six hours of sun for best results.  The more sun the better, but if some shade is present, it is best to plant roses so that they receive morning sunlight.  This morning sun will help dry the early morning dew off which will help reduce leaf diseases such as black spot.  Roses like a well-drained soil with some amendments added to improve water-holding capacity.  Now, while generally we don't recommend adding soil amendments when planting woody plants, the rose is an exception which will greatly benefit from compost mixed into the upper twelve inches of soil.  Start a regular maintenance fertilizer as soon as new growth begins with a complete fertilizer including micronutrients and slow-release nitrogen for best performance.   As a final touch, good organic mulch will help retain moisture and suppress weeds.  When watering, it is best to apply irrigation to the soil surface so that the leaves are kept dry. 

Keeping a rose plant looking its best will involve some regular grooming and pruning.  Grooming is going to involve light and selective trimming such as removing dead flowers.  This keeps rose hips (fruit) from developing and redirects the plants energy back into the plant for more blooms.  If needed, more major pruning can be accomplished in February with a lighter follow-up pruning in August.  Removal of dead, diseased, damaged or spindly growth will improve the plants form and keep the height in bounds.  Flowers for the vase are best cut after the green sepals at the base of the flower fold back toward the stem and the outside petals loosen and start to unfurl.  Cut the flower with a sharp knife just above a five-leaflet leaf. 

Probably the biggest pest problem in our area is a fungal disease called black spot.  Most low-maintenance cultivars are fairly resistant to this disease.  However, removal of dead and diseased leaves will help as part of a sanitation effort.  Also, mulch will help create a barrier between the rose and the soil level.  Using drip irrigation will also help keep the foliage dry and thus less open to black spot infection.  Fungicides are also available to protect new growth.

Roses are definitely worthy of a spot in your landscape.  For more information on growing roses, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.  

Resource:

Park Brown, S. (2013) Growing Roses in Florida. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.