Rain gardens – take advantage of low spots

Although the rain has subsided for the year, all of us have probably seen low areas that held water for several days in-between rain storms.  These areas are inappropriate for many plants as their roots actually drown and rot out.  However, there are many plants that can tolerate and even thrive in or around low, seasonally wet areas.  These sites can be developed into what are called rain gardens. As one of the principles of Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ - specifically, #8: Reduce Stormwater Runoff - rain gardens filter water before it flows into the ground.  

If you have a swale, as many of us do, you already have a rain garden.  Swales are specifically designed to catch water, store if for a period of time and then filter it as it percolates through turf roots into the soil and eventually the aquifer.   Other low areas in your yard can also be developed into  rain gardens.    A good place for a rain garden is where downspouts flow out into the yard.  You do not want water collecting around your home’s foundation, so downspouts can be extended and directed further out into your landscape towards a depressed area.  Rain water from any hard surface such as a driveway or sidewalk may also contribute to this.

Rain gardens are going to look very meadow-like, so plan carefully as you make your plant selection.  Deep-rooted  native grasses such as gulf muhlygrass or sand cordgrass are part of almost all rain gardens.  Other sections may include wild flowers like golden cannas and Coreopsis, and native ferns such as leather ferns.  Native shrubs that do well in a rain garden include cocoplum, beautyberry, Walter’s viburnum,  and wax myrtle.  Native trees such as dahoon holly, pond cypress, and red maple are also excellent selections for this type of planting.   Keep in keep in mind the ultimate height and width of the plants selected.  You can even design rain gardens to look like a creek bed with stones used to add eye appeal and texture in both the wet and dry seasons.

When designing a rain garden, make it between four to eight inches in depth.  If the depression is greater than eight inches, it is likely to keep water standing too long.

If you wanted to see a real rain garden in our own community, there is a nice example at the front of the  Murdock Administration Building at 18500 Murdock Circle in Port Charlotte.  There is signage marking the rain garden with some explanation of the planting and how a rain garden works. 

Take advantage of low spots with a beautiful and functional rain garden!  For more information on all types of gardening topics,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.    I also want to direct you to our “ Master Gardener Speaker’s Bureau” at http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/2012%20Speakers%20Bureau%20Brochure.pdf  where subject matter presentations can be scheduled for your group or organization.

Resources:

Sachson, A. (2007) Create a rain garden.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS  – Okeechobee County.

Post, A. (2010) Rain Gardens: Plant Selection and Maintenance.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS  – Sarasota County.

Post, A. (2010) Rain Gardens: Function and Installation.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS  – Sarasota County.

Badurek, T. (2010) Plant a Rain Garden for our Watershed.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS  – Pinellas County.

Why you don’t want a golden rain tree

You have probably seen this tree hiding in plain sight until it flowers and subsequent pink, papery fruit capsules emerge in the fall and put on quite a show.  This is the golden rain tree sometimes also identified as Flamegold.  While it was a commonly planted tree many years ago, the golden rain tree has since fallen out of favor.  This tree was found to be invasive as its seeds ended up all over the place producing numerous seedlings and eventual trees.  There are also other reasons that you do not want this tree.

The golden rain tree can grow upwards to fifty feet tall with a similar width, but most in our area are less than thirty feet.   This evergreen tree has feathery compound leaves alternatively arranged on the branches.  The clusters of yellow flowers emerge in early fall and are followed by showy pink fruit capsules each containing about six seeds.  Both the flowers and the pink capsules can often be out at the same time making quite a display.    However, the golden rain tree, aka Koelreuteria elegans ssp. Formosana,  is classified by  the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (FLEPPC) as a Category II Invasive Plant.  Category II means that “Invasive exotics that have increased in abundance or frequency but have not yet altered Florida plant communities to the extent shown by Category I species. These species may become ranked Category I, if ecological damage is demonstrated.”  The seeds are scattered around landscapes and can germinate in as little as six days.  These resulting seedlings can potentially grow to become trees which produce more seeds, and so on.  Now an invasive nature should be problem enough to disqualify  this plant.  The wood can also be weak and branches can break in windstorms.  One additional problem that is often experienced is the presence of the red and black jadera bug.  This stinkbug-like insect can show up by the thousands where there is a golden rain tree for the single purpose of feeding on the seeds.  This is their favorite food; so much so that they are also known as  "goldenrain tree bugs."  The jadera bug does not bite or sting, but its numbers can be quite disconcerting to homeowners and this insect can stain if squished.  If you have a golden rain tree in your yard, you will eventually have jadera bugs. 

So, as you look across the landscape and catch sight of a golden rain tree, just appreciate it from a distance!  For more information on all types of invasive plants, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council’s 2015 List of Invasive Plant Species. (FLEPPC) http://www.fleppc.org/list/2015FLEPPCLIST-LARGEFORMAT-FINAL.pdf.

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. ( 2014) Koelreuteria elegans ssp: Flamegold.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Wilber, W. (2013)  The Golden Rain Tree, or Koelreuteria elegans, is an invasive species.  www.ocala.com/article .

The University of Queensland, Australia. (2011) Golden Rain Tree,  Koelreuteria elegans ssp. Formosana. 

Caldwell, D. (2015) Jadera bugs? Must be Spring! The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Collier County.

The chaste tree – a bee and butterfly magnet

A somewhat uncommon tree/big shrub for our area, the chaste tree is a favorite throughout Florida.  Sometimes seen at a few at local garden centers, the chaste tree is noted for its lavender, lilac-like blooms somewhat similar to the butterfly bush.  While some species of chaste trees have been identified as being invasive - Vitex rotundifolia or beach vitex  for example is actually a Category I Invasive, and Vitex trifolia  or simple-leaf chaste tree is a Category II Invasive, the chaste tree highlighted in this article is Vitex agnus-castus.  While  Vitex agnus-castus can get a little weedy, it is not considered a problem. 

The chaste tree grows not much larger than fifteen feet tall with a similar spread in our area.  The gray-green, hand-shaped, deciduous leaves emit the scent of sage when touched.   The lavender, fragrant, spikes of showy flowers are in bloom from late spring through summer at which time they can be awash with bees and butterflies – maybe even a few hummingbirds!  As this tree is heavily visited by pollinators, be careful where it is situated avoiding heavily travelled areas where passersby may not appreciate the buzz.   The flowers are followed by fruit which dries and produces four seeds. 

It can be trained into a standard small tree, used in large containers or planted as part of a deck or patio.  As this low branched tree is multi-stemmed and somewhat shrub-like, it can also be used as a border planting.  The chaste tree does best in full sun in well-drained soil.  Tolerating hot weather extremely well, chaste trees are also noted to be highly drought-tolerant, moderately salt spray tolerant, and adaptable to alkaline soils.  In fact, soils rich in organic matter or overly moist soils can cause root rot and dieback. 

The chaste tree is another noteworthy Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant suitable to grow in your own landscape.  For more information on all types of flowering plants suitable for Southwest, Florida, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Vitex agnus-castus: Chaste Tree.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Scheper, J. (2004) Vitex agnus-castus.  Floridata: Tallahassee, FL.

Sachson, A. (2008) Cool Blue in the Landscape.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Okeechobee County.

UF/IFAS (2010) The Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ Guide to Plant Selection & Landscape Design, http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/homeowners/publications.htm.

Wilber, W. (2010) Vitex tree thrives in Florida's heat and humidity – (The Gainesville Sun)  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Alachua County.

UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions – Chaste Tree.  http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/chaste-tree.html. 

Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council’s 2015 List of Invasive Plant Species - http://www.fleppc.org/list/list.htm.  

What is it?

A common question these days is “What are those musky vines with yellow flowers covered with weird orange, ridged fruit?”  This question is often accompanied by a photo showing an invasive plant that is practically everywhere – the balsam pear (Momordica charantia).  An annual relative in the cucumber family, balsam-pear or balsam-apple is a weedy invasive vine which hides in plain sight until you notice those bright orange fruits.  Then you say, “What is it?”

According to the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (FLEPPC) the balsam apple/pear (Momordica charantia)  is considered a Category II Invasive Plant.  Category II means that “Invasive exotics that have increased in abundance or frequency but have not yet altered Florida plant communities to the extent shown by Category I species. These species may become ranked Category I, if ecological damage is demonstrated.” Its widespread nature and ability to grow up and over nearly every fence or plant encountered clearly shows its tendency to monopolize an area.  Originally from Africa and Southeast Asia, the balsam pear was brought to Europe in the early 1700’s and has since become a nuisance plant in Florida.  The local wild balsam-pear should not be used for food as it does possess toxic properties.  This invasive weed is not to be confused with the edible version cultivated for Asian cuisine called the Chinese bitter melon.  The Chinese bitter melon is much longer with light green to white knobby skin and can be grown like a cucumber on a trellis. 

The balsam-pear is an annual vine which sprouts from a fairly large seed in the spring and throughout the summer months.  The fuzzy-stemmed vine grows many feet long as it clambers over everything in its way using coiling  tendrils for support.  The palm-shaped leaves are lobed, about three inches wide, and alternately arranged on the stem.  Eventually the vine produces yellow, ruffled flowers – some are male, some are female.  Once pollenated, the female flowers develop a lumpy green fruit with a pointed end.  This ridged, several inch long fruit eventually ripens to a bright orange color.  The fruit then bursts open showing an orange and red interior.  The mature seeds are then ready to drop and infest a new area.  When grasped in the hand, the balsam-pear vine gives off a musky, distinct scent that is like no other. 

While balsam-pear can quickly overwhelm a fence or group of shrubs, hand-picking the vines before they flower  and set fruit will help begin to suppress this pest.  As the balsam-pear vine and other valued plants are often intertwined, the use of herbicides in this situation is not recommended.  If there was a pure stand of balsam-pear, the use of the non-selective herbicide glyphosate would work as a control when applied as per label directions.  Otherwise, hand-picking should eventually rid you of this weed.

If the weedy nature of the balsam-pear is not enough reason to eliminate it, this plant can also act as a reservoir of certain insect-borne plant viruses such as  Zucchini yellow mosaic virus and Papaya ringspot virus Type W.  In any case, the removal of balsam-pear will pay off with a manageable and  sustainable landscape.  For more information on all types of weeds and their management, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Culbert, D. F. (1999) Balsam Apple: Weed or Vegetable? The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Okeechobee County.

Goyal, G., Gill, H. K. & McSorley, R. (2015) Common Weed Hosts of Insect-Transmitted Viruses of Florida Vegetable Crops.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council’s 2015 List of Invasive Plant Species. (FLEPPC) http://www.fleppc.org/list/2015FLEPPCLIST-LARGEFORMAT-FINAL.pdf. 

Puff

Late this summer, our staff and Master Gardeners installed a large patch of a groundcover called sunshine mimosa.  Many hands made the project go smoothly and now we are reaping the benefits.  This now large swath of puffy pink flowers greets visitors as they enter our parking lot.  Is  sunshine mimosa a great groundcover and a Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant?  Yes, it is!

Native plants are very popular these days and those that serve a function in our landscapes are even more popular. The sunshine mimosa is a  great example of this. This mimosa is a native of Florida and makes an excellent and attractive groundcover. Named as a “Plant of the Year” in 2008 by the Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association, sunshine mimosa is a resilient and beautiful plant.  Powderpuff or sunshine mimosa is a low-growing, spreading legume with feathery foliage and distinct one-inch long puffy pink flowers. The deep roots of this plant, and its ability to root along stems, makes it very drought tolerant once established. Erosion control is also a noted attribute of this plant.  Sunshine mimosa is a fast grower and as few as five potted transplants can cover up to 300 square feet in less than one growing season. Sunshine mimosa can be used in both residential and commercial settings as an alternative to turf or in roadside plantings. As a legume, it has the ability to fix nitrogen via its association with special nitrogen fixing bacteria. This ability can add nitrogen to the soil. Establishment can be accomplished with potted transplants, rooted sprigs, or even seeds. Seeds should be scarified (the seed coat thinned) before planting. The seed coat on sunshine mimosa is very hard and unscarified seed will take a year or more to germinate. Sunshine mimosa is not very competitive and can be mixed with turf. Grass and mimosa can be mowed together without hurting the low growing mimosa. The development of nitrogen fixing bacteria may take more than a year to benefit these plants. While the use of a slow release, no phosphorus fertilizer will delay or prevent the growth of these nitrogen-fixing bacteria, its use will promote flowering and reduce yellowing.   Relatively pest-free, sunshine mimosa can sometimes suffer from minor deer or caterpillar browsing.

Where can you find a source of sunshine mimosa? The production of this plant is presently somewhat limited. Check local native plant nurseries and similar Internet sources. On occasion you might find some containerized material in local nurseries as well. Certainly, once you have a mimosa patch established, you can propagate

your own new plants from this original stock. To see a patch of sunshine mimosa in full bloom is an impressive sight – come see ours! Try some as a groundcover or alternative to turf for low maintenance areas.  For more information on all types of groundcovers, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Norcini, J.G. & Aldrich, J.H. (2009) Native Wildflowers: Mimosa strigillosa Torr. & A. Gray. UF/IFAS Extension Service.

Brown, S. H. & Cooprider, K. (2010) Mimosa strigillosa.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Lee County

Jordi, R. (2010) Sunshine Mimosa - Mimosa strigillosa.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Nassau County

Olive trees – yes and no

While olive trees have been in Florida for some time as a curiosity and for small scale production further north, renewed interest has come about this tree as a landscape subject.  Growing upwards to a possible thirty-feet tall, olives can make a nice small to medium-sized landscape tree for our area.  As far as producing your own olives, I would not get your hopes up, but as an attractive tree, it is worth a try.

We planted a small olive tree ('Arbequina')  in our Demonstration Garden a few years ago to see how it would do.  It is now over six-feet tall and has actually, to our surprise, set some fruit this year!  This was not expected as we had heard that this far south fruit is not dependably set.  This may still be the case as it has not matured as yet and could still fall off.  Otherwise, this small tree has beautiful gray-green evergreen foliage with silvery surface on the underside of the leaves.  Although truly evergreen, the oldest leave swill shed as new growth emerges in the spring.  The bark color goes from gray-green to tannish-gray as it matures.  If olives develop flowers and fruit, a crop is normally produced every other year.  If fruit is produced, it starts green and then turns blackish-purple when ripe.  Please note that the fruit has to be processed to become palatable as raw fruit is bitter and inedible. 

Pollination is another consideration as it can be complex, climate-sensitive and many olive cultivars are not self-fertile.  In our area this may not be of much consequence.  However, just for the record, if you were to select suitable self-fertile cultivars, try 'Arbequina', 'Mission', or 'Manzanilla'. In suitable climates, fruit set may be increased by planting more than one cultivar in close proximity.

Plant olives in full sun areas with very good drainage for best results.  Once established, olives are fairly drought-resistant and can be long-lived.  Please note that many people are allergic to olive pollen so plant accordingly. 

Again, like some newer plants, finding suitable olive trees may be difficult in our area.  I have seen as recently as last week some in a local box store garden center.  Otherwise, please check with local family-run garden centers and regional specialized nurseries as well as internet sources.  While the one olive in our Demonstration Garden is doing really well, it represents a trial of sorts as to how well these trees will do in our area – so far, so good.  As to olive production, I am not holding my breath, but find that this attractive tree holds some promise as landscape feature.  For more information on all types of trees suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Thetford, M., Gillet-Kaufman, J. L.& Mulvaney, M. J. (2015) Olives for Your Florida Landscape.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions (2015) Olives. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

Florida Trees For Urban and Suburban Sites (2015) The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

Spray, V. ( 2010) Grow Olives in North Florida.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Leon County

When palms have bad hair days

When can a palm have a “bad hair day?”  Palms can have bad hair days when they have a manganese deficiency.  The newest fronds develop what is called “Frizzletop “ and really stick out like a sore thumb!  Learn how this deficiency develops and how to prevent it.

Manganese is considered a micronutrient and as such is needed in relatively small amounts.  However, when things like soil pH are too high (our soils are often alkaline) it may be difficult for palms to pick up certain nutrients such as manganese and a deficiency results on the newest fronds.  Palms in soil with poor drainage and/or cool temperatures may also show Mn-deficiencies.   Palms may not have been properly fertilized (or fertilized at all) and this of course can lead to a deficiency.  Even oddball things like applying composted sewage sludge and manure products can actually artificially induce a manganese deficiency.  Whatever triggers the problem, those palm fronds will forever be marked by yellowish, dead streaks.  New leaflets appear dead and withered giving the leaf a frizzled appearance.  Most of the damage is noticeable at the base of the leaf, but is less severe towards the tip .  In severely deficient palms, death can eventually occur.

While most palms can develop manganese deficiency, the Queen, Royal and Pygmy date are particularly sensitive.

The best recommendation is to use proper palm fertilizers which already contain manganese such as is found in an 8-2-12-4 applied in November, February and May as per label direction, and then  followed in August with a 0-0-16-6, again, as per label directions. 

If a palm is diagnosed with a severe deficiency, soil applications of dry manganese sulfate can be made over the soil under the palm canopy. The rate applied can  range from eight ounces for a small palm up to five to eight pounds for a large palm, depending on the severity of the deficiency condition and soil pH – read the package label for directions as well.    Applications may need to be repeated every two to three months if the problem persists.   It may take up to six months to see a change on the new fronds –  remember, the old deficient fronds will remain the same. 

“Frizzletop” is not only unattractive, but can also slowly lead to the decline and/or death of a susceptible palm.  Feeding your palm correctly will pay off with years of healthy, attractive palms accenting your glorious landscape!   For more information on all type of palm tips,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resource:

Broschat T. K. (2014) Manganese Deficiency in Palms.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Fiji foliage provides bold color in the landscape

When you think of colorful foliage plants you might add to your landscape, you may target crotons, coleus, or even caladiums.    But what about the copperleaf?  Copperleaf shrubs today come in a surprising array of colors and leaf shapes that simply pop in the landscape.  Is there a copperleaf in your future?

Originally from Fiji and the general South Pacific region, copperleaf can grow upwards to ten feet tall and wide, but can be pruned to whatever shape is desired.  Used informally, the copperleaf is a relatively fast grower and makes a spectacular hedge or privacy screen with individual plants spaced three to five feet apart.  Besides the gorgeous leaves, copperleaf often develop fuzzy, cattail-like flowers from the leaf axils.  The best foliage color will be realized in full sun.  These shrubs will tolerate some shade, but may develop sparse branching in low light areas. Copperleaf can be cold sensitive, but any frost-nipped portions quickly re-sprout when warm weather returns.  The flamboyant copperleaf will benefit from wind and salty spray protection.   

While you may have only seen one or two cultivars of copperleaf, there are about twenty-six types available.  Dwarf cultivars such as ‘Blaze’ (with narrow maroon leaves )may only grow from three to five feet tall.  If you like a variety with rich copper-colored leaves try one called ‘Brazen’.  ‘Haleakala’ has dark maroon strangely twisted serrated leaves.  And for something different there is one called ‘Irish Petticoat’ with rounded green leaves edged with a serrated white margin.  Another beautiful white and green variety with large leaves is called ‘Java White’. In a similar vein, look for ‘Tahiti’ which totes large twisted green and yellow leaves.  The cultivar  ‘Mardi Gras’  takes the exotic look one step further with very narrow green, white and pinkish-orange leaves.  For one with thin leaves that change as the year progresses, try ‘Inferno’ .  ‘Inferno’ goes from red to red-orange and yellow over time. 

Copperleaf is incredibly easy to propagate from cuttings.  Propagating your own from cuttings obtained from gardening friends will help you increase your copperleaf collection over time.    So to enhance, or even provide a substitute for flowers, plants with colorful, textured leaves add a layer of splendor and interest.   The copperleaf, another Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ plant,  can provide these attributes and more!  For more information on shrubs suitable for our area,  please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Caldwell, D. (2015) Copperleaf Adds a Little Shine to the Landscape!.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Collier County.

Christman, S. (2004) Acalypha wilkesiana.  Floridata.com, Tallahassee, Fl.

Schmidt, E. (2015) Garden View: Copperleaf - Acalypha wilkesiana.  Harry P. Leu Garden. 

Gilman, E$. F.  (2014) Acalypha wilkesiana. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS

Invasive orchid resurgence in Charlotte County

Beginning in 2012, we started spotting a curious invasive orchid known as “The Beautiful Crown Orchid" popping up all over our landscapes in mulched beds.  While it seemed to be declining in some areas, I have seen a recent resurgence of this weedy plant at other sites.  Despite its name, this invasive orchid is not that attractive and is in fact rather drab. Why couldn’t Charlotte County be invaded by something like a beautiful cattleya orchid!  The educated gardener should be aware of what it looks like and become familiar with some interesting background information.

This orchid is botanically identified as Eulophia graminea, a type of ground orchid.  Native to tropical and subtropical parts of Asia where it can be found in a variety of habitats, this orchid first showed up in Miami in 2007, probably as a result of an escape from an orchid collector, and then in 2011 in Lee County.  This ground orchid appears to favor mulched landscape beds in sunny locations.  While many of the ones that I have seen in Charlotte County have been associated with mulched beds, some have been seen in natural areas.   At first glance, you would think that it was a relative of the Amaryllis or even an onion as it has a thick bulb-like base.   The short, lily-like leaves almost remind me of daylily leaves.  However, if you look closer you will notice that the bulb is actually what is called a pseudobulb, a storage organ, often associated with orchids.  From this pseudobulb (which often sticks partway out of the mulch), appear up to five short, strap-like leaves.  At maturity this orchid produces a long shoot (up to several feet tall) with a cluster of very small flowers.  The flowers  –  white with pink and green in color –  are followed by seed pods full of tiny seeds.

Orchids reproduce via minute, dust-like seeds that can travel in the wind, as well as from orchid plant parts, the pseudobulbs.  This is probably how they have spread through our area.  Information on this orchid also indicates that it can tolerate fairly cool temperatures and is likely to continue moving north.  If you see one of these orchids, pull it up and destroy it to keep it from spreading.  We can certainly help you identify it at our office or simply send me a digital photo to my e-mail address:   Ralph.Mitchell@charlottecountyfl.gov.

Invasive pests – whether plants, insects, or other similar organisms – seem to be a fact of life here in Florida.  Vigilance is part of the management strategy so that offending individuals such as this ground orchid can be controlled at least on your own property.  For more information on all types of invasive plants and animals, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Brown, S. H., Becker, T. & Cruz, P. (2012) Eulophia graminea a Potentially Invasive Ground Orchid.  The University of Florida Extension Service - Lee County. 

EDDMapS Floridahttp://www.eddmaps.org/distribution/point.cfm?id=2482748 – Submission by Culbert, D., UF/IFAS Okeechobee Extension Service.

Hammer, R. 17360 Avocado Drive, Homestead  FL  33030 – Personal Communication.

Pemberton, B. & Koptur, S. A Newly Naturalized Orchid Found in Florida. June 2008. American Orchid Society, Coral Gables.

Pemberton, B., et al. Alien Terrestrial Orchid, Eulophia Graminea, Invades Miami.

Weaver, R.E. and Anderson, P.J. 2009. Botany Section. Tri-Ology. FDACS, Tallahassee, Florida

Pretty pentas provide plenty of posies

If you like perennial plants that flower almost all-year round, you may be interested in pentas.  Named after the Latin word for “five” due to the five-petalled flowers, pentas have bright flowers that attract butterflies, hummingbirds and on-lookers alike.  While also called Egyptian Star Clusters, these originally east African plants grow great in our area.  Useful in planters, as cut flowers, in hanging baskets and as accent plants, pentas may have a place in your landscape.

Pentas lanceolata, or just plain pentas, is really an evergreen shrub that can grow up to three-feet tall.  There are other varieties to choose from including low-growing and mounding types of about fourteen-inches in height.  Larger types can get so tall that they can actually fall over.  Colors range from red, white, lavender, purple and pink.  The red and darker pinks types are particularly attractive to hummingbirds.  The fuzzy haired leaves frame the tubular flowers that are grouped together in large clusters.  In fact, one plant can have upwards of twenty clusters of flowers at a time.  Pentas should be planted in a full sun to part shade location with well-drained soil.  Although full sun will promote the most flowers,  pentas can actually produce some flowers with as little as three hours of sun per day.  Mulch to conserve moisture, but don’t plant pentas in sites where soggy soil can be a problem.  Plant on eighteen to twenty-four inch centers when installed for mass plantings.   One convenient characteristic in the management of pentas involves their ability to self-deadhead.  Ordinarily, many flowering plants require removal of old flower heads in a process known as “deadheading”. 

Plant pentas in combination with lantanas, ixoras, blue salvias, or in front of other evergreen shrubs such as hollies, ligustrum, wax myrtles or junipers for a stunning landscape feature.  An added bonus - as cut flowers, pentas can last up to five days in a vase.  Use this plant in combination with summer annuals as a subject for containers.  Pentas are perhaps the most popular flowers in the garden as far as butterflies are concerned, so if you are into butterfly gardening, this is a popular nectar source.  Pentas can be easily propagated by rooting cuttings or from seeds. 

If you like plenty of flowers on a perennial plant, try pentas.  For more information on all types of flowering plants suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. & Shiffit, S. (2014)  Pentas lanceolata Pentas.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Christman S.  (1997) Pentas lanceolata Floridata. Tallahassee, FL.

Klingaman, G. (2002) Plant of the Week: Butterfly Pentas.  The University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.

Winter, N. (2005) Southern Gardening – Choose Pentas for Outstanding Color.  University of Mississippi.

Rodriguez, D. (2006) Butterfly Pentas.  Texas A&M University System, Texas Cooperative Extension Service.  

The story of schefflera

How can a schefflera plant be either good or bad?  The answer: when one species is an invasive and one is a premium landscape plant!  Many years ago, the Schefflera actinophylla  also called the schefflera tree or Queensland umbrella-tree, or even octopus tree, was a staple plant both for containers and sometimes even for outdoor landscape planting.  Over the years it was found to be a Category I Invasive plant by the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council and is no longer recommended.  Seeds were spread by birds all over and this plant began to show up in the wrong place – the classic definition of a weed.  Small plants set out in the garden by well-meaning homeowners soon became massive, over-powering trees with extensive roots taking over their property.  Enter a different type of schefflera, a dwarf type with deep green leaves – some with beautiful variegation.  This new short schefflera fit the bill as a prized landscape plant – the Arboricola.

The original color of the dwarf schefflera or Schefflera arboricola, was a dark glossy green with palmate leaves forming a rounded evergreen shrub not much bigger than ten feet tall unpruned with occasional colorful orange-yellow fruit in the winter.  A very dense shrub already, bushiness can be enhanced by pinching the tips of stems to force more side-shoots to develop and to keep the plant in bounds.  As such, the Arboricola was ideal for short to medium hedges, espaliers, outdoor containers or even as an indoor plant.  Doing well from full sun to shade sites,  this plant has many good landscaping attributes.  One of the best shrubs for shady conditions, Arboricola likes sandy, well-drained soil and does best on the dry side once established.  Drought and salt-tolerant, Arboricola is hardy in our area and will snap back nicely if damaged by a frost.  

Add one more attribute to this fine shrub – variegation – and you have a real beautiful foliage plant.  Cultivars have been found and propagated with yellow and white splashes of color.  Named cultivars such as ‘Covette’, ‘Gold Capella’, ‘Jacqueline’, ‘Renate’, and ‘Trinette’ were developed with ‘Trinette’ being the most common and popular.   Variegated Arboricola are readily available at almost all garden centers year-round – a real “bread & butter” item.

Dwarf Schefflera are the way to go for colorful foliage and proven landscape success.  For more information on all types of shrubs suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (2015) List of Invasive Plant Species. http://www.fleppc.org/list/2015FLEPPCLIST-LARGEFORMAT-FINAL.pdf.

Schefflera actinophylla. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schefflera_actinophylla.

Culbert, D. (2007) A Houseplant or a Shrub? The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Okeechobee County.

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Schefflera arboricola: Dwarf Schefflera.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2013) Schefflera actinophylla:. Schefflera. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Doveweed – gentle name, aggressive weed!

Weeds have a way of slowly squirming themselves into your landscape.  A small patch of weeds today soon becomes a large patch of weeds in a month and then it often becomes a bigger problem.   I remember soon after Hurricane Charley in 2004  a new unfamiliar weed took hold in my yard.  At first I thought that is was some new type of grass and it sort of looked good.  And then I saw the telltale purple flowers -  I had an infestation of the dreaded doveweed!

At first doveweed looks like a fine-bladed grass eventually almost looking like St. Augustine.  As such, it can go unnoticed for some time.  Preferring moist conditions, doveweed is actually a sedge-like weed with shiny leaves  attached to creeping stems that spread over the ground.  As these stems spread they can root down at the nodes.  A mower can chop doveweed into pieces and these segments can propagate themselves vegetatively all over the place.   Doveweed is actually a summer annual, so it also produces flowers and  seeds.  The seeds are also moved about by lawnmowers, birds and water.  These seeds can survive in the soil for years, so complete management is an on-going process. 

Once doveweed is identified in your lawn, what is the next step?  As this weed loves moist areas, see what you can do to improve drainage and/or reduce overwatering.  Also, be careful about your mowing height.  Mowing too short (scalping) is a bad practice and allows the doveweed to out-compete the grass.  If the infestation is small, you can eradicate it by spot treating with a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate to “surgically” remove these offensive weeds.  Another herbicide strategy would be a properly timed pre-emergent such as atrazine in the case of St. Augustine lawns (not Bahia grass) on February 1^st .  Using atrazine as a post-emergent herbicide would also work, but not when the temperatures exceed eight-five degrees F.   As with any pesticide you use, read the label, the label is the law.

It will take more than a year to get rid of a serious doveweed infestation.  Using cultural controls hand-in-hand with chemical options should help suppress this weed.  Once under control, keep your turf in vigorous and healthy condition and monitor for future small infestations as needed.  For more information on all types of weed management information, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Leon, R. G. & Unruh, B. (2015) Doveweed (Murdannia nudiflora) Control in Warm-Season Turgrass Species.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Jordi, R. Weeds (2015) Doveweed. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS – Nassau County.

Futch, S.  H. & Hall,  D. W. Identification of Sedge and Sedge-Like Weeds in Florida Citrus.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Trenholm, L. E.,  Cisar J. L. & Unruh,  J. B. St. (2014) Augustinegrass for Florida Lawns. The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Sweetgum as a shade tree

A valuable hardwood, sweetgum also makes a great landscape tree in its southern range here in Southwest Florida.  Also called alligator-wood, star-leaved gum, and gumtree, sweetgum is a deciduous tree with a narrow pyramidal shape and interesting corky projections on the branches.  This Florida-Friendly Landscaping™ native tree can fit into many residential yards.

You do not see too many sweetgums in Charlotte County – perhaps a few in landscapes, but it is uncommon.  We have a few at the East Port Environmental Campus in Port Charlotte which have developed at a moderate growth rate and are now just making an impact in the landscape.  Their star-shaped leaves make for a beautiful foliage display in season and the corky, wing-like twig outgrowths add winter interest. While they could grow upwards to seventy-five feet tall in central and northern Florida, ours specimens are around thirty feet after fourteen years of growth. I have seen a few individual landscape sweetgums upwards to forty-feet tall in our area, but that is the biggest that I have observed.   This is about the southernmost edge of where sweetgum trees occur other than what you  see installed in landscapes.  Another “plan before you plant” alert - keep in mind that sweetgum do have large, aggressive roots which can lift sidewalks and curbs.  As such, plant these trees at least ten feet from curbs in urban areas.  Allow plenty of space for this specimen tree.

Mature trees will produce a round, golf ball-sized prickly fruit which provides numerous seeds for wildlife.  However, this fruit can be a nuisance on roads and walkways and unpleasant to walk on if barefoot – ouch!  Interestingly enough, there is a solution to this problem – a cultivar called ‘Rotondifolia’ does not produce the spiny fruit and has interesting rounded foliage. While sweetgums may be too tall for some residential lots, an  uncommon cultivar called ‘Gumball’ is a good small variety with shrubby, rounded, slow growth barely topping out at fifteen feet tall.   Another cultivar called ‘Variegata’ has interesting variegated foliage –  an additional twist on this old favorite.

Sweet gum trees can provide a pleasing shade and grandeur when properly placed and given time to develop.  For more information on all types of trees suitable for  southwest Florida, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman, E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Liquidambar styraciflua: Sweetgum.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS.

Christman, S. (2012)  Liquidambar styraciflua.  Floridata.com, Tallahassee, FL.

Sweetgum. 4-H Forest Resources.  UF-SFRC.  

Roof rat best management practices

Did you know that rats can squeeze through cracks one-half of an inch wide?  Did you realize that rats have been known to jump eight feet from a tree to a house?  While these facts may be more of a curiosity than a concern to most homeowners, preventative measures can pay off to keep rodents away from your property.  Rodent proofing, sanitation, and encouragement of predators are good practices to ensure a rat- free future.

The roof rat is a non-native species originally found in southern Asia.  Roof rats are now the number one rodent pest in Florida. By nature, these rats are nocturnal and very secretive preferring to live and travel above ground in trees, and across wires, vines and fences.  Roof rats are up to fourteen-inches long which includes a tail that is longer  than their body.  The fur color ranges from black to brown to gray with a light colored underbelly.  The droppings are fairly easy to identify being  black, banana-shaped, and a quarter to a half-inch long. Having up to forty babies per year, female roof rats are highly prolific. 

While roof rats really like fruit (aka fruit rat) they will eat a wide variety of domestic animal feeds, bird seed and garbage.  Roof rats will travel up to one-hundred and fifty yards from their nests to forage for food or water.  They also prefer to keep their nests in attics, soffits, hollow trees, and the old fronds on palm trees, but will also nest  in piles of debris stacks on the ground.

Prevention is always the best practice.  Before rat activity is detected, consider rodent proofing using materials such as twenty-six gauge or heavier sheet metal, nineteen gauge or heavier hardware cloth with openings no more than one-quarter inch, and brick with mortared joints.  These materials are placed where rodents gnaw such as the edges of doors, windows, holes where pipes enter buildings, ventilation holes in foundations, roof vents, exhaust fans, and eave vents.   Fruit trees can be protected by twenty-four inch wide sheet metal rat guards secured around the tree.  Keep fruit trees branches from touching fences or wires where rats could access these runways.  Also prune lower tree branches so that rats cannot climb up into the trees. 

Sanitation is also an important task where food items are kept away from rodents.  Many of these practices are common sense such as cleaning up garbage and rubbish and keeping it in metal garbage cans with tight fitting lids.  Keep all pet food and birdseed in rodent proof containers.  Pick ripe fruits and vegetables before rats get to them, and locate and eliminate sources of water.  Also keep hiding places removed such as general junk and garbage in your yard. 

Beyond the juvenile rats that cats may occasionally catch, local natural predators can be very helpful in suppressing this pest population.  Birds of prey, especially owls, feed on rats.  The literature indicates that a pair of barn owls can kill several hundred rats a year.  Many non-poisonous snakes are also great rat controllers.  Snakes such as rat snakes, king snakes, pine snakes, black racers and coach whips catch and eat rats. 

If you have an infestation of rats, and  find gnawed areas, droppings, etc.,  it is time to take action.   Rat traps are good first step.  Attach traps to tree branches or fences with rubber bands for best results.  Limiting trap setting from dawn to dusk will help avoid accidental trapping of birds and squirrels during the day.  The use of live traps will also  help with this issue.  If you choose to use rat poison, certain precautions must be taken.  Rat poison must be secured in a tamper-proof bait station so that children, pets and wildlife cannot gain access – this is stated on the label and it is the law. 

Keeping roof rats away is a worthwhile venture.  Some simple preventative measures, as outlined above, will go a long way in controlling these four-legged pests! For more information on all types of pest control, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Koehler, P.G. & Kern, Jr., W. H. (2013) Rat and Mouse Control, The University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS.    

Kern, Jr., W. H. (2015) Control of Roof Rats in Fruit Trees, The University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service, IFAS.     

The pitch apple

Some plants have names related to uses they no longer have -  the pitch apple is an example.  In the old days, pitch-apple “pitch” was scrapped from the seeds and used to caulk boats.  The “apple” portion of the plant is misleading as the fruit is poisonous.  However, pitch-apple has been given a new use as a landscape plant.  While it can only be dependably used in the warmer parts of the County, the pitch-apple is a broadleaf evergreen that can make wonderful hedges and privacy screens, as well as an ornamental subject for planters.  Have you heard about the pitch-apple?  Let’s talk.

The pitch-apple is considered a native plant normally found in Miami-Dade, Broward, Monroe County Keys and regions well south of there.  It has thick, dark green leaves noted to retain written words gouged into the leaf tissue – aka autograph tree.  During the summer, the pitch-apple produces three-inch pink/white flowers at night.  These nocturnal showy flowers are followed by three-inch diameter fleshy, green, poisonous fruit.  When ripe, the fruit turns black and splits open revealing red seeds and  black, sticky pitch. 

This native plant is a relative newcomer to the market in our area.  About six years ago I noticed a hedge of pitch-apple planted around a commercial property in Port Charlotte.  It looked great and seemed to grow beautifully.  However, after several cold winters, it had frozen down to the ground and did not grow back.  Not far from this sight around another commercial property, I noticed pitch-apple was planted with other some other landscape plants within beds situated throughout  a vast asphalt parking area.  These plantings survived because of the simple fact that the warmth stored in the pavement during the day was sufficient to protect these pitch-apples from freezing on cold winter nights.  The lesson learned was that pitch-apples are hardy from zones 10 b and southward.  This means that will do well right along the immediate coast in Charlotte County, but as you move inland, unless you have them planted in known “micro-climates”, provide some type of protection during cold spells, or have them potted in containers that can moved indoors, they will most likely freeze. 

With that in mind, the biggest pitch-apple trees that I have seen planted in our area are about six-feet tall.  Compare that to some I saw in Naples which were over fifteen–feet tall.  As such, it can easily be pruned to the size you want.  Adapted to full sun to part shade, the pitch-apple is tolerant of sandy soil, and best of all, it is very salt-spray tolerant and fits well with seaside plantings.  Once established, this native is highly drought-tolerant as well.

Besides your standard pitch-apple, Clusia rosea, there are some cultivars available including a variegated form called ‘Variegata’ with yellow and green foliage.  There is also a cultivar with smaller leaves called ‘Nana’.  As with many tropical plants in our area, location is very important in regards to cold tolerance and ultimately, sustainable survival.  For more information on ornamental plants suitable for our area, please call our Master Gardener volunteers on the Plant Lifeline on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 1 to 4 pm at 764-4340 for gardening help and insight into their role as an Extension volunteer.  Don't forget to visit our other County Plant Clinics in the area.  Please check this link for a complete list of site locations, dates and times - http://charlotte.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/Plant%20Clinics%20Schedule.pdf.

Resources:

Gilman E. F. & Watson, D. G. (2014) Clusia rosea: Pitch Apple.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS. 

http://florida.plantatlas.usf.edu/Plant.aspx?ID=2180 - Clusia rose.

Pipoly III, J. J. &  Granson S. (2008), Urban Horticulture Technician Florida-Friendly Shrubs for Perimeter Plantings.  The University of Florida Extension Service, IFAS - Broward County Extension